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Routes in The Keel

Barking Spiders T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Barking Up the Wrong Spider T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bizarro Duck T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dumb Fun T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hi. I'm The Best Guide EVAR! T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Inertia Creeps T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kings of Cribbage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mezzanine S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Peter's Flight School T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Pin Man A3+ R
Poopy Hunch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Razor Flake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
TexasFlake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Andy Ross & Gene Vallee
Page Views: 1,098 total, 11/month
Shared By: apross on Jul 23, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Start up the slab right of Dumb Fun.
Pull round the roof on the right then step left into a groove/ramp. Head up this to a headwall where some nice pulling leads to the anchor.

A good warm up on the way to the Coffin.

Location

Starts on the slab right of Dumb Fun.

Protection

Bolts.
1/2" to 3" cams.
Med size wires and a few long slings.

Photos

I really like this one. The lower slab getting up to that roof is super fun. The gear moving left over the roof is fine. The gear description is dead on and all the gear we had was super solid. Where you are on gear the climbing is particularly easy and you get a bolt to finish. Seems like a great warmup for the Coffin if you are a 5.9 leader gunning for the onsite. Oh, and I love that when the leader is at the belay our 70M rope was exactly at the midpoint.

The anchor down and left is from Troy Anderson's aid route Pin Man going out that roof. Looks fairly straight forward and probably a great intro to steep, traversing nailing. May 30, 2010
It's too bad the lower slab isn't longer--fun moves on great stone. The climbing above is engaging, to say the least... Nice work, gents! Nov 23, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Fun slightly gritty slabbing leads to some downright frightful rock. Small nuts help up high, or cams smaller than 1/2". The moves to the anchors felt stout and sketchy for the grades. Long slings on everything or you'll end up pulling hard on that rope.
Check out the anchor 10' down and left, it's quite the sight.
Any info on the bolted line through the roof? Nov 7, 2009