Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thomas Koch, Bill Robins 1986
Page Views: 434 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Nov 17, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

At the base of the Keel, underneath Dumb Fun, (The obvious roof) is a ramp/ slab that you can climb to approach Peter's Flight School. It is probably 5.4 or so in diifficulty and 100 feet high, so be careful or rope up. Climb this ramp to a pine tree with slings. Peter's Flight School starts by climbing up a dihedral on the right end of the wall after the slab ends. Look for a bolt. It works past a bush (joy), and up a nice groove with less and less protection. It then steps left across the rice-y slab and with great fall potential. Finally the old 1/4" bolt is reached. Clip it from the slab, and make your 5.11a move with deck potential on the slab. This IS a fun move, just scary for the leader. Continue up the steep face, clip a bolt unseen from below, the halfway extracted old knifeblade, make one more difficult move and then place micro's above the plant. Angle right to the roof, place your cams, and make another exciting series of moves left using the lip of the roof and/or the thin crack at the base. Look left and you will see the angle piton; however, we felt better with the cams (runnered) at the roof. Continue left, stepping across the slab to the anchors, now with new chains. The second pitch, continues left to a bolt, and then up and to the left of the end of the roof, past a pin and up an easier, although runout slab. We did not finish due to light's impending end, and decided to bail from the anchors.

The climb would not be bad if it (altogether now) just cleaned up. The 5.11a move was interesting, and the roof sequence was a blast. Unfortunately the gear sucked and the fixed gear was scary. The rock was rice-y, loose, hollow, and just plain scary throughout most of the route. The approach needless to say was annoying. A 70-meter rope will get you off the anchors to the slung pine tree, and barely...barely get you from the pine tree to the base of the slabs.

Protection

2 bolts (1/4"), 2 pins (1 in really bad shape, 1 ok), and small cams for the end of the first pitch. A small selection of nuts would suffice for the rest, of the 1st pitch, micro's included. #2 Camalot for the 5.9 move on the 2nd pitch. Runners are neccesary.

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