Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: FFA Hong
Page Views: 79 total · 1/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Apr 16, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This climb is more dumb than fun, but that's because it chewed me up and spit me out. Belay at either of the sloping ledge systems on the ramp and avoid the initial bushels via some slab climbing on the right. Once you get established below the roof on the far right, execute bizzare campusing jams of all sorts under the roof, clipping two solid pins to protect the final spread eagle move to the crimps and final jug that allows passage to the anchor. Its short but it packs a punch.

Good gear but hard to place due to lack of things to stand on.

Felt like one of those hard campus bouldering problems the kids are into these days.


Hike up from the Crescent Crack parking towards the Egg, then switchback towards the Coffin. Located near the lowest(south) point of the keel, look for the body length horizontal roof facing west. "kings of cribbage bolts on the slab to the right. Anchors easily visible left of the roof. Nice photos of it on the "kings of cribbage" page.


Single Set of cams from small tcu to #3 camalot. draws for 2 pins exiting the roof. 2 1/4" bolt anchor with biners.


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