Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches
GPS: 35.1562, -83.0281
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,059 total · 14/month
Shared By: Pinche Gringo on Oct 2, 2019
Admins: Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier

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Description Suggest change

P1 - 5.8

Climb the obvious ramp crack on the right side of the full shred buttress with plentiful gear up to #4 C4 with a handful of smaller cams protecting the 5.8 crux at the end of the pitch. The anchor is another 15 feet up and left through some vegetation.

 -all gear

This first pitch alone is a fun, very well protected easy/moderate pitch

This first pitch was climbed back in the late 80's by A.Kluge et al. if not even earlier by others to access the top of the buttress.

P2 - 5.10a

Trek up and left about 10 feet from the anchor until you can step onto the wall with hands on a horizontal crystal band and a couple obvious feet. The crux sequence is after the first bolt. After the crux a crucial #1 C3 or equivalent protects the moves up to the next bolt. From the second bolt you continue up until you can traverse right on a ramp feature. From a bomber mid size cam placement under the right of the two grooves, you go straight up to an interesting mantel move. After the mantel move you go up and slightly left moving through the right groove and ultimately back into the left groove. The anchors are straight above between the grooves.

-2 bolts and gear

It's possible that these upper pitches share climbing with or are in proximity to a previously climbed pitch by A.K. et al from back in the late 80's.

P3 - 5.8

-Climb up the right groove passing a large questionable flake system and two bolts until you end at a parking lot ledge at the top with another anchor station.

-2 bolts and gear

A single 60m rope will get you down with 3 raps.

Location Suggest change

The obvious weakness on the right side of the Full Shred Buttress system. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack up to #4 C4. It will take doubles in #1-#3 if you want to sew it up.

Photos

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