Type: Trad, 420 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Big greenie weenie and Hans "solo"
Page Views: 619 total · 10/month
Shared By: nbrown on Oct 25, 2013
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

This is a fun new 3 pitch line right in the center of the wall that was somehow overlooked throughout the years. It climbs through a huge swath of rock that previously had no routes at all.

There are 2 techy face pitches and a cool crack pitch sandwiched in the middle. Also, there is a cool groove variation to P-3 that is shown on the pic topo.

P-1 Start up on the bushy ledge just right of Sole Control. Climb the short handcrack in the corner to a small mossy ledge at the top of block. Climb the face through a bulge and up a thin slab to a quartz dike. Traverse out left on the dike and mantel up to the 4th bolt (sling long), then move back right and up to jugs and the last bolt (newly added). Easy climbing up right gains the anchor below the roof/corner. 5.11-

P-2 This goes much easier than it looks - there are plenty of great hidden holds. Climb the roof/corner past many textbook stopper placements and a few finger size cams to a good rest in the slot (think easy version of the "Womb"). From here follow the obvious corner hand crack to the end and an anchor. A # 4 camelot is useful but not necessary. 5.10

P-3 Move up and left to a line of 3 bolts that lead to easier, slightly runout, climbing (be sure to have a .75 camelot). Continue up and into the left streak and through a couple of 9ish bulges to an anchor. 5.10 c/d

Rap the route.

P-3 variation
From the end of the short squeeze section of pitch 2, move up and right onto a wild quartz ledge and belay. The var. climbs climbs cool face holds right of the groove past 3 bolts before moving back left into the groove. From here, climb past a mandatory #2 camelot (pinched-down spot in groove) and 3 more bolts to easy terrain. Follow this mossy groove up and left to an anchor. 5.10

Location

Between "Sole Control", and "Out of The Blue..." (AKA the Ramp). Third class up and right onto a vegetated ledge to locate the hidden short-crack start.

Protection

Standard NC rack up to a #3 or #4.

Photos

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