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Routes in Big Green

Asses & Elbows T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Greenie Weenie T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campfire Girls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger of Extinction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Flushed Down the Toilet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Grand Delusion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Joke the Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Live At Leads T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Species T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outta The Blank (and Into The Blue) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Panthertown Knobs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paralleling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scars on a Landscape T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Christians T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Out're T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Emerald City T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip-O-Will T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 2 pitches
FA: T. Kelley, Matt Gentling, Christian Robert - 1990
Page Views: 1,182 total, 11/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on May 27, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

P1: climb 100' (yes, 100') to the first bolt over 5.7 face/slab, then past another couple bolts to big horizontal, belay here.

P2: Climb up from the horizontal to a flake and roof. Load the flake with small TCUs and/or tricams, maybe a stopper (anything that will fit), and get ready to do work. Pull the roof into the watergroove (strenuous and technical), then work up to the bolt on the left. Clip this and make a sigh of relief. Climb up the steep water groove past a few bolts and some gear to a bolted belay. Rappel.

Location

Far left end of the crag. Second route from the end.

Protection

Couple QDs, a screamer or two, light rack to #2 Camalot.

Photos

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BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Nathan, the recommendation for TCUs/small cams is for loading up the flake before you pull into the groove. I remember some really good yellow and orange TCUs there. Oct 28, 2013
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
The belay could be built from just about anything. I used the bigger cams there because the write-up here said tcu's for P-2 (didn't use any). TK guide says bring extra big cams (read this in the guide after I did the route). Guess I should have looked beforehand...

Edit: Thanks for posting the route - I just wanted to point out some additional info that could be very helpful. Oct 28, 2013
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Nathan, I cede to your opinion on the grade and will revise....I don't mean to downplay this route, at all....it's a heads up route for sure.

We didn't place anything bigger than a #2 in the P1 belay either time I've been on this, but I can see a #3 working. Likewise, larger pieces up high might work, but we didn't use them and I definitely don't remember seeing any before the first bolt.... My friend Paul thought he was going to fall out of the groove onto me and my brother the first time we got on this...he didn't find any gear above the overlap and I haven't subsequently. Maybe we missed it.

Also, yeah, tricams are mandatory gear for BG, LK, and other Panthertown areas....don't leave home without them. Oct 28, 2013
Ezra Ellis
Hotlanta
  5.9+ X
Ezra Ellis   Hotlanta
  5.9+ X
Have to agree with Nathan on this one, you also need a #3 camalot for the belay.
Fairly fun route if you don't have to lead it or don't mind getting hurt!!! Oct 26, 2013
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Ben, this thing is definitely harder than 8+ -- it's rated 9+ in both guidebooks. I finally did it today, and I'd say it's probably harder (and a little more dangerous) than most of the low 10's at BG.

Didn't bring any big cams on P-2 and had to pass up some good placements above the overlap before the first bolt. Bring a cam in the #2-#4 range for this section (I used mine in the belay below). Also, I found tricams really useful out on the face above the last bolt.

All in all a fun line, but fairly dangerous because of the low angle slab you'll hit if you blow the crux. Oct 25, 2013