Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Doc Bayne
Page Views: 436 total · 6/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Nov 13, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Slab 100' to the first bolt, passing intermittent small gear, where the wall gets steeper. Clip this and make a rising traverse up and right, 40', passing a key #3 Camalot placement in the crystal dike. Clip the sceond bolt and enter no fall territory. Climb up and slightly right 30', ending at a solid cam placement in the hanging corner. Jam and layback a short ways up the corner to the ladge and bolted anchors.

A fall after bolt 2 would be long and would land one on bulges below.

Location

Far left, left of Joke the Chicken.

Protection

Small offsets, small tricams, and TCUs below bolt 1. #3 between bolts 1 and 2. #2 Camalot for the corner at the end. A #3 Camalot also perfectly backs up the old anchor.

Photos

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BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
  5.9
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
  5.9
All bolts new as of December 2012. Thanks, DD and SS. Dec 3, 2012