Type: Trad, 440 ft (133 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: DV & Shannon Stegg (ground up)
Page Views: 456 total · 21/month
Shared By: Dylan Valvo on Apr 27, 2020
Admins: Ky Bishop, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 climb up through corner with rhodos gingerly stepping over a stack of Tetris blocks then up through overhang on giant wedged flakes and fist jams. Build belay above overhang. 5.10

Pitch 2 climb up chimney till you reach the horizontal crack. Climb horizontal crack left and pull around corner entering left facing dihedral. Climb this to a ledge on the right with a good stance and build belay in horizontal crack. 5.11

Pitch 3 climb left off the belay through face, slab and water groove to a double bolt belay. 5.11

Pitch 4 optional nonsense 5th class or so up the rest of groove to the summit. We down climbed this on a rope from a stance and the second followed with a belay off bolts below. 5.6

Double rope rappel to the top of second pitch. From here you can do one of three things... make your way to the top of full shred do a double rope rap from its anchors to the ground, rap the escalator route, or do a double rope rappel off the first bolt of pitch 3 (yes one bolt) to the ground.

Location

This climb starts to the left of the full shred buttress in the large corner system dead center of the wall. 

Protection

I had doubles from 00-3 with the smaller sizes being offsets to supplement the doubles, half ropes, tricams, a couple small nuts a fair amount of quick draws and alpines.

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