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Routes in Big Green

Asses & Elbows T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Greenie Weenie T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campfire Girls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger of Extinction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Flushed Down the Toilet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Grand Delusion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Joke the Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Live At Leads T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Species T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outta The Blank (and Into The Blue) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Panthertown Knobs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paralleling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scars on a Landscape T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Christians T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Out're T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Emerald City T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip-O-Will T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Description

Excellent slab, face, and watergroove climbing over crisp granite with great friction in a beautiful mountain valley.

Paralleling (10), Ground Control (8+), Panthertown Knobs (9+) provide for some of the technically easiest climbing, but still should be treated with the utmost respect. Almost every route here gets an R rating. A fall on any route here could be nasty.

Getting There

From the parking lot, follow the old roadbed TR474, past Salt Rock overlook on your left and down the hill. After a few minutes take a right on Deep Gap TR449 until you encounter a pine grove on the left. Walk diagonally through to pine grove to a faint trail leading to the SE, ultimately intersecting TR486 to Granny Burrel Falls at the creek crossing. Cross Panthertown Creek continuing on Great Wall TR489, passing the Boy Scout shelter on the right, meandering into the woods. After a few minutes, the wall will be visible to the left. Find the trail to the base. This takes you to the face in the neighborhood of Camp Big Green, 5.11a, left of center.

18 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Big Green

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
both pitches of Scars on a Landscape have been renewed with 1/2" stainless bolts and beefy hangers. pitch 2 is all of 60m, so plan accordingly. pitches are mixed bolts and gear. pitch 2 is 5.10b or so, pitch 1 is 5.9. both are sporty, but you already knew that didn't you. carry a few small nuts and cams to 2.5" Jan 26, 2017
p-2 of Campfire Girls almost done - Jeep and I replaced the first three bolts. Old ones are still next to new ones in place now - I think there are two more higher up plus an anchor.

Climbed at BGM today - Shannon's newish route on the far left - Grand Delusion and Danger of Extinction (p-1 is truly scary) working on a second pitch. Nov 11, 2012
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
The first pitch of Bigeminy is also really well protected and pretty easy. Jul 8, 2012
the first pitch of campfire girls has new bolts, and if you are willing to adventure a bit on the left side of the water groove for pro, this is the best moderate pitch at big green and a good place to start to understand the expectations here. you'll need cams from 3/8" to 2". enjoy the new anchor. pitch 2 has not yet been renewed so keep that in mind. Jun 29, 2012
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
Sean Cobourn   Gramling, SC
Thanks for the replacement work Jeep, Tim and whoever! Big Green is an awesome cliff. Sep 29, 2011
finished the jiffy renewal yesterday, but i still need to cut out the old bolts. all the new ones are good to go, both pitches. jiffy is a fine route and hopefully it will see a little more action. if you use the ditches start you'll find 10a climbing right off the bat but it mellows to 8+ to 9 till you get to bolt 3. from there all the way to the belay it's sustained 10 with a 10c crux. the second pitch is a good bit shorter. all 6 bolts occur in the first 80 feet or so. there are a couple smearing rests but no legit hand holds on the whole pitch.teetering hard 10. i use 1/2-2 1/2" cams. Sep 26, 2011
interesting tim. hard to know what sort of shape they're in just looking at them. i may crank on a couple with a wrench and see what happens. in the mean time i replaced the first pitch bolts on jiffy and the first two on ditches. it's my intention to eliminate the rest of ditches and repair the holes as best i can. it's a bit of a squeeze job and detracts from the ambiance of the routes left and right. anyone who wants to do the original start to jiffy can still do that but climbing through the first two bolts of ditches makes a more manageable run out. there is a small cam placement between the bolts so there is no danger of a grounder assuming a competent belayer. the same cannot be said for the original jiffy start. i'll renew pitch two of jiffy sometime this early fall. i'll post it. Sep 2, 2011
i've been rebolting also. the 1st pitch of paralleling is renewed, and the second pitch was already done so it is as safe as it will ever be. also there are now new bolts at both jiffy belays although i haven't cut out the old ones yet. i was running from rain and didn't stop to saw. they say there is no accounting for taste but i think green routes taste good. Jul 20, 2011
Andrew Blease
Bartlett, NH
Andrew Blease   Bartlett, NH
Scary. Don't fall or you will get hurt. Sep 23, 2010
[ [ [ [ shriv ] ] ] ] May 27, 2009

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