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Routes in Big Green

Asses & Elbows T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Greenie Weenie T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campfire Girls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger of Extinction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Flushed Down the Toilet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Grand Delusion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Joke the Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Live At Leads T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Species T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outta The Blank (and Into The Blue) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Panthertown Knobs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paralleling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scars on a Landscape T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Christians T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Out're T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Emerald City T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip-O-Will T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Thomas Kelley, Joe Lackey
Page Views: 1,517 total · 20/month
Shared By: JohnWesely on Jul 8, 2012
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

A "casual" entryway into one of NC's most feared cliffs. After negotiating some steep friction, clip the first of three beefy bolts and step into a shallow groove. After mantling up on a cool quartz jug, give a sigh of relief as you clip the second bolt and thank the heavens that you have about a hundred feet of climbing ahead of you with little risk of ground fall. After the bolts end, pad up a deeper water groove, which is initially well protected. While the climbing after the pro ends only occasionally breaks into 5.7 territory, the 50 foot plus run out will keep you on your toes.

The second pitch goes at 5.10, looks sort of inconsistent, and features rusty old bolts. Get after it!

Location

Obvious water streak then groove with three bolts roughly 20 feet apart. Last route on the first section on the wall.

Protection

3 bolts, a smattering of cams.

Photos

Drew Dekle
  5.10b PG13
Drew Dekle  
  5.10b PG13
Just replaced 3 bolts on the second pitch with Jeep yesterday - second pitch is 5.10b or so - - the first pitch is 5.9 but getting to the first couple of bolts is a little heady and there is about 70 feet of runout 5.6 mid-pitch. The moves between the first thin pro on pitch two and the first bolt is really super heady and a fall would really suck here - - it's all there, you just have to focus on what you're doing and confidently climb but if 5.9 is your grade, try Paralleling at 5.10a - this route will give solid 5.10 climbers a good scare if they don't have the friction game in play. Not sure why this route is labeled 5.9 on this site - guidebook has it as 5.10 and there are several 5.10 moves over gear on the second pitch for sure. Oct 1, 2012
Drew Dekle
  5.10b PG13
Drew Dekle  
  5.10b PG13
Oh, first ascent was Thomas Kelly Oct 1, 2012
Drew Dekle
  5.10b PG13
Drew Dekle  
  5.10b PG13
First Ascent was THOMAS KELLY - NOT JEEP - GRADE IS AT LEAST 5.10B - NOT 5.9 Nov 26, 2012
IMO pitch two is the much better pitch, and is solid 5.10. Pitch one has a 5.9 crux but mostly its a long run on easier gound(5.7ish).
Thanks for replacing those bolts! Jan 1, 2013
Joe Lackey and I did the first ascent. Jul 25, 2013

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