Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Big Green

Asses & Elbows T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Greenie Weenie T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campfire Girls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger of Extinction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Flushed Down the Toilet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Grand Delusion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Joke the Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Live At Leads T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Species T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outta The Blank (and Into The Blue) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Panthertown Knobs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paralleling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scars on a Landscape T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Christians T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Out're T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Emerald City T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip-O-Will T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 375 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Whitney Heuerman and Monty Regan
Page Views: 288 total, 8/month
Shared By: Drew Dekle on Nov 9, 2014
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

First pitch is an excellent 5.9+ - getting to the first bolt is much easier than it looks - the crux is just above the second bolt and is well protected - - you will find a lot more natural gear on this route than it looks like from the ground - mid sized cams, tri-cams, plus small and medium stoppers. The runout from the last bolt to the anchor is easier than it looks. I have not done pitch two yet but it is supposed to be 5.10b and it would seem accurate - we replaced the first bolt today but it looks really good. The first ascent bolts on pitch one and the anchor have been replaced with stainless and are good - - pitch two bolts still need replacing but may be ok for your ascent - proceed with caution.

Location

This route is 2 grooves (about 40') to climbers right of Whip O Will, 50' right of Welcome to Emerald City and 80' right of Campfire Girls (FYI, the groove just left of Scars is an un-named Jeep Gaskin route that needs re-bolting but has seen recent traffic) there is a little grassy clearing just below and climbers left of the start - aim to the left of a big obvious roof and moss pad that are about 90' above you. The route goes left of these features.

Protection

There are a total of 3 protection bolts on pitch one but you will find a lot of gear where needed - a standard NC trad rack - no big pieces needed on pitch one. There are two protection bolts visible from the belay on pitch one belay on pitch two - we replaced the first one directly over the belay today - you will see our leaver biner - the second one is about 20' up and left of the groove - assume that there will be one or two more bolts on the pitch and likely some gear - the FA was done in bold style though - don't expect bolts on easier terrain - - there is a new double bolt rappel anchor on top of Welcome to Emerald City - - (there may be a double bolt anchor on top of Scars too). The Emerald City Anchor is about 50 or 60 feet climbers left (and up some) at the top of this pitch - when we do pitch two (replacing rusty bolts) I will post more (or someone else please add . . . . .

Photos

- No Photos -
Drew Dekle  
 
This is a great route and a good many of the old bolts have been replaced. Apr 10, 2017