Scars on a Landscape
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 375 ft (114 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Whitney Heuerman and Monty Regan |
Page Views: | 1,156 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Drew Dekle on Nov 9, 2014 |
Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
First pitch is an excellent 5.9+ - getting to the first bolt is much easier than it looks - the crux is just above the second bolt and is well protected - - you will find a lot more natural gear on this route than it looks like from the ground - mid sized cams, tri-cams, plus small and medium stoppers. The runout from the last bolt to the anchor is easier than it looks. I have not done pitch two yet but it is supposed to be 5.10b and it would seem accurate - we replaced the first bolt today but it looks really good. The first ascent bolts on pitch one and the anchor have been replaced with stainless and are good - - pitch two bolts still need replacing but may be ok for your ascent - proceed with caution.
Location
This route is 2 grooves (about 40') to climbers right of Whip O Will, 50' right of Welcome to Emerald City and 80' right of Campfire Girls (FYI, the groove just left of Scars is an un-named Jeep Gaskin route that needs re-bolting but has seen recent traffic) there is a little grassy clearing just below and climbers left of the start - aim to the left of a big obvious roof and moss pad that are about 90' above you. The route goes left of these features.
Protection
There are a total of 3 protection bolts on pitch one but you will find a lot of gear where needed - a standard NC trad rack - no big pieces needed on pitch one. There are two protection bolts visible from the belay on pitch one belay on pitch two - we replaced the first one directly over the belay today - you will see our leaver biner - the second one is about 20' up and left of the groove - assume that there will be one or two more bolts on the pitch and likely some gear - the FA was done in bold style though - don't expect bolts on easier terrain - - there is a new double bolt rappel anchor on top of Welcome to Emerald City - - (there may be a double bolt anchor on top of Scars too). The Emerald City Anchor is about 50 or 60 feet climbers left (and up some) at the top of this pitch - when we do pitch two (replacing rusty bolts) I will post more (or someone else please add . . . . .
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