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Routes in Big Green

Asses & Elbows T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Greenie Weenie T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campfire Girls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger of Extinction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Flushed Down the Toilet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Grand Delusion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Joke the Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Live At Leads T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Species T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outta The Blank (and Into The Blue) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Panthertown Knobs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paralleling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scars on a Landscape T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Christians T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Out're T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Emerald City T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip-O-Will T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Joe Lackey and Thomas Kelley
Page Views: 2,563 total, 25/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Climb directly up between two water grooves passing a #2 Camalot placementand five bolts to a bolted belay (a few 10 moves).

P2: Continue up between the grooves, past five more bolts, and one white tricam placement, then up a steeper section to a belay on a tree ledge (sustained 10).

Rap: Move Right and rappel from double bolts on the top of Jiffy Pop Queen.

Location

50' right of Joke the Chicken, at the leftmost end of the main cliff in an overlap.

Protection

A #2 Camalot and a few draws for P1.
A white tricam and a few draws for P2.

Maybe a smattering of other small gear in case you find something else.

Photos

Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
 
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
 
On P1, I attempted to go straight up the right groove to the 5th bolt and found it to be much harder than I expected. after down climbing back to the fourth bolt (yea yea), I angled up and right of the groove into some good dishes for feet but no hands. This ended up making it much easier for me to get to bolt #5.

I also didn't think the P1 finish was R. Maybe I had anchor tunnel vision, but after making the first move off the last bolt I wasn't overly concerned anymore as the finishing moves didn't seem that hard to me. Apr 10, 2016
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.10c R
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.10c R
I would give the finish to P1 an R rating, not PG13. A fall near the anchor of P1 over the bulge would have consequences to your ankles or the back of your head. The falls on the rest of the route would just result in slides. Oct 11, 2013
i place a 0 tcu and a #1 rock equalized between bolts 1 and 2. at bolt 3 you'll have to do a couple hard moves beginning with the bolt at your shoes. the crux is at bolt 4 and the fall is safe. use every option in both grooves and the hunk between them. there is a #2/3 camalot placement after the last bolt on pitch 2. the belay is on cams, 1 to 2 inches. the rap line, if you're facing out is just beyond the bush to your left. don't go to the ratty tree and belay. you'll just have to down climb to the rap anchors. Sep 2, 2011
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
Pitch one is straight forward with a #2 camalot placement at about 25' and four or five more bolts over a total of around 140'.

Pitch two is five bolts with one placement between the first and 2nd that cuts the runout in half...a white tricam in a shallow horizontal.

1st pitch has a few easy 5.10 moves mid pitch, with a hard, high-step if you take the right groove to the belay. Taking the left groove yields a couple moves a letter grade or two easier than the right groove, but is challenging nonetheless and more sustained.

2nd pitch is consistently sustained with much of the climbing at easy 10 or harder. Stemming the grooves tames the technicality a bit, but at the cost of burning calves.

A fall on this route would be LONG and slabby, but not incredibly dangerous as the granite is very smooth. Typical spacing between bolts and the few placements is around 20'.

Belay in a horizontal above on medium to large cams. Move climber's right to anchors on a neighboring route. Two double rope rappels to the ground. Jun 15, 2009