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Routes in Big Green

Asses & Elbows T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Greenie Weenie T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Campfire Girls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Danger of Extinction T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Flushed Down the Toilet T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Grand Delusion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ground Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Joke the Chicken T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Live At Leads T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Species T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Outta The Blank (and Into The Blue) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Panthertown Knobs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Paralleling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scars on a Landscape T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Valley Christians T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Way Out're T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Emerald City T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Whip-O-Will T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Stegg, Jacobs, Fall 2012
Page Views: 1,037 total, 17/month
Shared By: BirminghamBen on Nov 27, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Slab climb up the initial apron passing two bolts to the ledge at the base of the corner. From here, the path is clear. Follow the beautiful, left-facing, arching crack for 100' passing great and plentiful gear and bolts where necessary.

Slab, laybacks, tricky stemming, an undercling flake, and great fingerlocks and handjams....a bit of it all with a face climbing crux at the end.

Stays interesting the whole way.

Location

Left of Danger of Extinction, up the hill. Belay at base of slab below two bolts.

Protection

One of everything + double blue TCU thru #1 camalot.

Photos

Great Climb - very unusual for Big Green Mountain - the only scary part is at the very top getting to the anchors (a don't fall spot for sure) - not too worried about the lower flake - you just need to be careful and I've fallen on the bolt at the crux and didn't break my ankle (so there). Go have fun. Apr 28, 2015
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
We rapped down this to get off Joke The Chicken and counted a total of 4 bolts on the dihedral proper, in addition to the slab. I'd heard from people that had done it that there there were only a couple? Shannon, did you add some a few weekends ago when we saw you guys out there? Oct 30, 2013
rock-fencer
Columbia, SC
 
rock-fencer   Columbia, SC
 
I would agree with everything except that the Crux move has legitimate ledge fall concern with gear at your feet at the base of the ledge. Personally i'm not risking my ankle. I honestly think that to make this a true gem a bolt protecting this ledge fall should be considered.

Secondly the flake lower down needs to be trundled properly, i almost pulled it off just by looking at the damn thing let alone pulling on it. Disaster in the making if you yard on this flake hard.

Otherwise fun movement. Definitely doubles .75-1, and singles in other portions from the 75% of the route that i climbed before down climbing back to the first bolt. Jun 23, 2013
BirminghamBen
Birmingham, AL
 
BirminghamBen   Birmingham, AL
 
This is a beautiful crack line...sustained, and well protected. Cleaned in 2011 by Shannon and Andrew's brother, then FA'd November 2012 by Shannon and Jody, the unearthed corner yields steep and aesthetic climbing over good protection.....odd for Big Green. Nov 27, 2012