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Big Green

N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Panthertown Valley

Description

Excellent slab, face, and watergroove climbing over crisp granite with great friction in a beautiful mountain valley.

Paralleling (10), Ground Control (8+), Panthertown Knobs (9+) provide for some of the technically easiest climbing, but still should be treated with the utmost respect. Almost every route here gets an R rating. A fall on any route here could be nasty.

Getting There

From the parking lot, follow the old roadbed TR474, past Salt Rock overlook on your left and down the hill. After a few minutes take a right on Deep Gap TR449 until you encounter a pine grove on the left. Walk diagonally through to pine grove to a faint trail leading to the SE, ultimately intersecting TR486 to Granny Burrel Falls at the creek crossing. Cross Panthertown Creek continuing on Great Wall TR489, passing the Boy Scout shelter on the right, meandering into the woods. After a few minutes, the wall will be visible to the left. Find the trail to the base. This takes you to the face in the neighborhood of Camp Big Green, 5.11a, left of center.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
● Grand Delusion
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 2
● New Species
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
● Stegg Co.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 1
● Danger of Extinction
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 3
● Joke the Chicken
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 9
● Paralleling
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
● Jiffy Pop Queen
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
● The Killer Rabbit of Caerbannog
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
 1
● Black Widow
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
● El Fendejo
Trad 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
 1
● Nature Bats Last
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
● Camp Big Green
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 1
● Green Revolution
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 1
● Happy Campers
Trad 3 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Fishing For Fishies
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Infest The Rats' Nest
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Bigeminy
Trad 3 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
 1
● Gangrene
Trad 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 1
● Electraglide
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 10
● Campfire Girls
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
● Dyna Comp
Trad 2 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
● Welcome to Emerald City
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Massive Ordnance Penetrator
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
● Big Greeny Weeny
Trad 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
● Whip-O-Will
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
 1
● Disgust
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
● Scars on a Landscape
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 1
● Sole Control
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Valley Christians
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 1
● Asses & Elbows
Trad 3 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A1
 1
● Out of the Blue and Into the Blank
Trad, Aid 3 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 2
● Outta The Blank (and Into The Blue)
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 2
● Daddies Are Brave
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
● Arch Enema
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
● Way Out're
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 0
● Live At Leads
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 1
● Gumption On The Green
Trad 4 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 2
● Full Shred
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
● Escalator
Trad 3 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 1
● Elevator
Trad 2 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
 1
● Ice Bombs
Trad, Aid
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 6
● Panthertown Knobs
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 10
● Ground Control
Trad 2 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 1
● Sloppy Steaks At Truffoni's
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Cryogenic Squirrel Zombies
Trad 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
 1
● Flushed Down the Toilet
Trad
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 2
● Schism
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
● Parabol
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 1
● Parabola
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
● Pandemica
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 2
● Crazy Crystal Line
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
● Easy Dihedral
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 1
● My Corona
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Grand Delusion
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● New Species
 2
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Stegg Co.
 1
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
● Danger of Extinction
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad
● Joke the Chicken
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad 2 pitches
● Paralleling
 9
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Jiffy Pop Queen
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
● The Killer Rabbit of Caerba…
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Black Widow
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R Trad 2 pitches
● El Fendejo
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad 3 pitches
● Nature Bats Last
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R Trad 3 pitches
● Camp Big Green
 4
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
● Green Revolution
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad 3 pitches
● Happy Campers
 1
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
● Fishing For Fishies
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
● Infest The Rats' Nest
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Bigeminy
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
● Gangrene
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X Trad 2 pitches
● Electraglide
 1
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Campfire Girls
 10
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Dyna Comp
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Welcome to Emerald City
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Massive Ordnance Penetrator
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Big Greeny Weeny
 2
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Whip-O-Will
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Disgust
 1
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 Trad
● Scars on a Landscape
 4
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Sole Control
 1
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Valley Christians
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Asses & Elbows
 1
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
● Out of the Blue and Into th…
 1
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A1 Trad, Aid 3 pitches
● Outta The Blank (and Into T…
 2
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
● Daddies Are Brave
 2
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Arch Enema
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
● Way Out're
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
● Live At Leads
 0
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad
● Gumption On The Green
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
● Full Shred
 2
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
● Escalator
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Elevator
 1
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad 2 pitches
● Ice Bombs
 1
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 Trad, Aid
● Panthertown Knobs
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Ground Control
 10
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad 2 pitches
● Sloppy Steaks At Truffoni's
 1
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Cryogenic Squirrel Zombies
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
● Flushed Down the Toilet
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 Trad
● Schism
 2
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Parabol
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
● Parabola
 1
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 2 pitches
● Pandemica
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Crazy Crystal Line
 2
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
● Easy Dihedral
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● My Corona
 1
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Panthertown Valley after moonrise/sunset.
[Hide Photo] Panthertown Valley after moonrise/sunset.
Pitch 1 and 2 of Bigeminy combined.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1 and 2 of Bigeminy combined.
Jeep Gaskin taking a gander at "Live at Leads" Possibly still unrepeated.
[Hide Photo] Jeep Gaskin taking a gander at "Live at Leads" Possibly still unrepeated.
Panthertown Valley, NC<br> <br>
[Hide Photo] Panthertown Valley, NC
Big Green.
[Hide Photo] Big Green.
Jeep Gaskin rapping down "Campfire Girls"
[Hide Photo] Jeep Gaskin rapping down "Campfire Girls"
Looking up from the bottom of "Campfire girls 5.9"
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the bottom of "Campfire girls 5.9"
Big Green from the overlook above Wilderness Falls
[Hide Photo] Big Green from the overlook above Wilderness Falls

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
[Hide Comment] [ [ [ [ shriv ] ] ] ] May 27, 2009
Andrew Blease
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] Scary. Don't fall or you will get hurt. Sep 23, 2010
jeep gaskin
[Hide Comment] i've been rebolting also. the 1st pitch of paralleling is renewed, and the second pitch was already done so it is as safe as it will ever be. also there are now new bolts at both jiffy belays although i haven't cut out the old ones yet. i was running from rain and didn't stop to saw. they say there is no accounting for taste but i think green routes taste good. Jul 20, 2011
jeep gaskin
[Hide Comment] interesting tim. hard to know what sort of shape they're in just looking at them. i may crank on a couple with a wrench and see what happens. in the mean time i replaced the first pitch bolts on jiffy and the first two on ditches. it's my intention to eliminate the rest of ditches and repair the holes as best i can. it's a bit of a squeeze job and detracts from the ambiance of the routes left and right. anyone who wants to do the original start to jiffy can still do that but climbing through the first two bolts of ditches makes a more manageable run out. there is a small cam placement between the bolts so there is no danger of a grounder assuming a competent belayer. the same cannot be said for the original jiffy start. i'll renew pitch two of jiffy sometime this early fall. i'll post it. Sep 2, 2011
jeep gaskin
[Hide Comment] finished the jiffy renewal yesterday, but i still need to cut out the old bolts. all the new ones are good to go, both pitches. jiffy is a fine route and hopefully it will see a little more action. if you use the ditches start you'll find 10a climbing right off the bat but it mellows to 8+ to 9 till you get to bolt 3. from there all the way to the belay it's sustained 10 with a 10c crux. the second pitch is a good bit shorter. all 6 bolts occur in the first 80 feet or so. there are a couple smearing rests but no legit hand holds on the whole pitch.teetering hard 10. i use 1/2-2 1/2" cams. Sep 26, 2011
Sean Cobourn
Gramling, SC
[Hide Comment] Thanks for the replacement work Jeep, Tim and whoever! Big Green is an awesome cliff. Sep 29, 2011
jeep gaskin
[Hide Comment] the first pitch of campfire girls has new bolts, and if you are willing to adventure a bit on the left side of the water groove for pro, this is the best moderate pitch at big green and a good place to start to understand the expectations here. you'll need cams from 3/8" to 2". enjoy the new anchor. pitch 2 has not yet been renewed so keep that in mind. Jun 29, 2012
JohnWesely Wesely
Lander
[Hide Comment] The first pitch of Bigeminy is also really well protected and pretty easy. Jul 8, 2012
Drew Dekle
Athens, GA
[Hide Comment] p-2 of Campfire Girls almost done - Jeep and I replaced the first three bolts. Old ones are still next to new ones in place now - I think there are two more higher up plus an anchor.

Climbed at BGM today - Shannon's newish route on the far left - Grand Delusion and Danger of Extinction (p-1 is truly scary) working on a second pitch. Nov 11, 2012
jeep gaskin
[Hide Comment] both pitches of Scars on a Landscape have been renewed with 1/2" stainless bolts and beefy hangers. pitch 2 is all of 60m, so plan accordingly. pitches are mixed bolts and gear. pitch 2 is 5.10b or so, pitch 1 is 5.9. both are sporty, but you already knew that didn't you. carry a few small nuts and cams to 2.5" Jan 26, 2017