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Happy Wife, Happy Life
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British R
Avg: 1 from 1
vote
Early Access
Routes in Southeast Face
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Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Central Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Greatest Barf, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Wife, Happy Life T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Simon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.715, -105.2917 |
| FA: | ??? |
| Page Views: | 749 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mitchell Dalton on Aug 26, 2019 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Pete Zagorski, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Triple Tier, Boston Peak, Grazing Allotment Crag
Details
FORT COLLINS, Colo. (Feb. 3, 2025) – To protect nesting birds of prey, the Roosevelt National Forest began implementing annual closures in several popular recreation areas within the Canyon Lakes and Boulder Ranger Districts on Feb 1, 2025.
On the Canyon Lakes Ranger District, the closure areas include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details.
The Roosevelt National Forest works closely with partners like Colorado Parks and Wildlife, Boulder Climbing Community and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
This one was an accident that included a bunch of 5.5 with one spicy, run out slab section. I didn't see it on here, so I decided to add it.
Intending to climb Dancing Ladies, we took the direct start just right of the Central Chimney and climbed a great 5.7 hand crack to the tree (as suggested in the Dancing Ladies comments). This is P1. Belay at the tree.
Here's where we diverged from Dancing Ladies:
P2. (5.8-) From the tree, instead of heading off right, go straight up from the base of the tree in an easy crack to a small ledge. From there, your only option is to delicately get out on the slab to the right. This is the crux of the route and the reason I tagged it "R". You are fairly runout, and a fall wouldn't be a good idea. Find tiny feet and good friction for a couple moves to a solid little ledge for your hands (still no pro). Traverse right and up to a crack where you can finally get a couple pieces in. Continue up on easy cracks staying just above the Central Chimney back and forth til you run out of rope.
P3/P4. (5.4-5.6) Find easy cracks and ledges above and just right of the Central Chimney. Finish and belay at the tree at the top of the chimney.
Location
This shares the direct start of the first pitch with Dancing Ladies as suggested in the comments on that page.
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