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Routes in Southeast Face

Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Central Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,653 total, 14/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Oct 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is an OK beginner's route up the Southeast face of Greyrock. Follow the main trail looking for the obvious chimney. If the trail touches the main rock, you have gone too far.

P1: Wander up easy low angle cracks to the base of the "chimney" pitch.

P2: This is the best pitch on the climb. Climb the 2-3 foot chimney for ~75 feet with very little pro. Surmount the headwall with a 3-4 foot chimney and belay.

P3-4: Another pitch or two of easy cracks will lead you to the top of Greyrock.

Descent: Follow the hiking trail to the base of the climb. It is best to scout out the hiking trail before doing the climb, if this is your first time at Greyrock.

Protection

Light SR.

Photos

Smokemonkey
5.6 PG13
Smokemonkey  
5.6 PG13
p2 ended in the chimney with a large chockstone blocking the way. Almost a roof move? Could be fairly frustrating for beginners expecting 5.4 climbing...I suggest staying climbers left at tthe base of the chimney and get out on the face, using the small crack systems to protect a fun low angle slab/face climb. I can't say what we did today was a 5.4, p1 could be graded as a 5.4, but the following 3 pitches should be considered a little more...FYI, there was a large nest under the chockstone, probally another reason to stay out and limit our impact... Mar 28, 2011
A little route-finding beta for those interested - Central Chimney starts about 70 or 80 feet right of Barfy's Favorite, which is easily identified as a handcrack rising off the top of a boulder.

CC offers fun climbing throughout - the crux is definitely stemming past the chockstone "headwall" at the end of P2. P1, and portions of pitches 3 and 4 are as easy as 4th class. Be sure to choose your belays positions wisely in the colder months - that chimney can be coooold. Feb 14, 2010
Rodney Ley  
 
Central Chimney is a nice route at a beginner's level.

Tip of the week: watch out for rope drag, since most of the route is low-angle and very easy, there is a temptation to run out the rope.

I didn't think pro was a problem, but then I cut my teeth on chimneys at Vedauwoo. Jul 3, 2006