Type: Trad, 550 ft (167 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: J. Bassett, D. Braddy, 1982
Page Views: 3,701 total · 22/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on May 30, 2010
Admins: James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Mr. Gone is awesome. There isn't an awkward move on the route, the rock quality is consistently excellent, there's a remarkable amount of challenging terrain compared to most other SE Face routes, and many runout sections make this quite an experience.

P1: Face climb past three bolts to gain an excellent seam/finger crack that leads, eventually, to easier terrain. Run it out over the lower angle slab to gain a good belay ledge (shared with Jetstream Deluxe) beneath the Prow. Protection can be tough to come by on this pitch, in both cruxy sections and on easier ones. A heads-up belay is encouraged for the first part of this pitch, as it's a bit of a jog to the third bolt, and from the third bolt to the finger crack. 5.10- R-, 60+ m.

P2: Blast straight up the steep face off the ledge (8 or so feet left of Jetstream Deluxe's nice corner), aiming for a bomber old button-head bolt in the middle of the face. There is protection to supplement the bolt, but you do have to work for it. Grab a rest at the horizontal break in the face, place pro at your feet, and launch into an exciting sequence up the remaining headwall, gaining a thank-god jug and easier terrain above. Aim a little left to a splitter, low-angle, left-facing dihedral to enjoy the best bit of 5.6 at Greyrock on the way to a belay when the rope runs out. 5.10- R, 60+m.

P3: Find your way to the top of the wall. If you handled the runouts and thin face climbing lower on the route it's likely you'll be comfortable covering the remaining 4th class terrain unroped. 4th/Easy 5th class, 100 feet

Location Suggest change

About 75 feet left of The Greatest Route a large, left-facing dihedral rises off a grassy ledge. The first crack system left of this, with a little pine tree in it, is Jetstream Deluxe. Mr. Gone heads up the face past three bolts just left of this feature.

Protection Suggest change

A light rack is all you'll need for this route. Nuts (offset micros recommended) and a single set of cams from Purple Metolius to #2 Camalot is adequate.

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