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Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey)
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Central Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Happy Wife, Happy Life T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R |
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Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Simon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Laurie Parcell, Craig Luebben, S. Schmetterer, Sally Moser |
| Page Views: | 2,091 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 14, 2010 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
This line lies immediately right of The Greatest Route at Greyrock, and sports a strikingly similar opening sequence through a short, right-facing dihedral capped by a roof ten feet off the deck.
P1: Boulder through the roof on good handjams (5.9), and follow cracks and face climbing to the left edge of a roof band to meet a second, much thinner, crux (5.9) with tricky pro. Pull the moves to gain a belay at a horizontal crack (hand-sized & larger cams). 5.9, 110 feet.
P2: Head straight up the face (9-) off the belay, passing two nice 3/8" bolts along the way to a seam. Continue up seams and face climbing - slightly runout - aiming right through quartzite terrain to find a suitable spot to belay near the huge P3 dihedral of Barfy's Favorite. 5.9-, 120 feet.
P3: Bearing right, climb the face, with cracks, above, passing a large dead tree. This face is "around the corner," so to speak, of the P3 dihedral of Barfy's. The angle eases and climbing leads to a convenient belay on a large ledge, also shared with Barfy's. 5.7+, 120 feet.
P4: This pitch is the same as P4 of Barfy's Favorite. Ascend the face or corner rising off the ledge (5.7 either way) to a right-facing corner and roof about 40 feet out. Pull through the squat overlap on good jams (5.7) and paddle up the crack above to a belay on/near the summit plateau. Better than P3. 5.7, 200+ feet.
P1: Boulder through the roof on good handjams (5.9), and follow cracks and face climbing to the left edge of a roof band to meet a second, much thinner, crux (5.9) with tricky pro. Pull the moves to gain a belay at a horizontal crack (hand-sized & larger cams). 5.9, 110 feet.
P2: Head straight up the face (9-) off the belay, passing two nice 3/8" bolts along the way to a seam. Continue up seams and face climbing - slightly runout - aiming right through quartzite terrain to find a suitable spot to belay near the huge P3 dihedral of Barfy's Favorite. 5.9-, 120 feet.
P3: Bearing right, climb the face, with cracks, above, passing a large dead tree. This face is "around the corner," so to speak, of the P3 dihedral of Barfy's. The angle eases and climbing leads to a convenient belay on a large ledge, also shared with Barfy's. 5.7+, 120 feet.
P4: This pitch is the same as P4 of Barfy's Favorite. Ascend the face or corner rising off the ledge (5.7 either way) to a right-facing corner and roof about 40 feet out. Pull through the squat overlap on good jams (5.7) and paddle up the crack above to a belay on/near the summit plateau. Better than P3. 5.7, 200+ feet.
Location
Ten or fifteen feet right of The Greatest Route at Greyrock lies a right-facing corner with a roof about ten feet off the ground. This is the start to Forward Never Straight. The second pitch runs parallel to the Greatest Route.
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