Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun).
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,752 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Richard Beller on Mar 18, 2005 |
Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
This fun route is about 200 yards east of the Greatest Route at Greyrock, on a separate face. It is not in the Colorado Climbing guidebook. I'm sure it has probably been climbed before, but I do not have Luebben's guidebook, and don't know the name. It offers two long clean pitches of fun low angle crack and face climbing, and a third pitch that is grassy and not memorable.
Directions to the base. Follow the main trail until it comes to the base of the wall in an aspen grove (50 feet west of the prominent right-facing dihedral). Hike left (west) about 100 feet along and up the face until you come to a black crack that starts at a 45 degree angle from near the ground, going up vertically around a small corner 15 feet off the deck. This is about 150 left of the prominent right-facing corner system. It is also easy to face climb directly to the crack system without protection.
Pitch 1. Follow the low-angle hand crack up 70 feet or so to a tree belay on the left, or continue face climbing for a total pitch of about 160 feet to a comfortable belay on a rounded ledge below an overhang.
Pitch 2. Traverse left around the overhang to a vertical crack. Climb up to a clean fist-sized crack (5.7 crux) that continues 20 feet or so. Face climb above this to a very easy (5.3) corner/overhang. Set up the belay there or above on a comfortable rounded ledge.
Pitch 3. Continue up the easy but grassy corner and upward to a tree belay. Walk off or hike to the summit.
Directions to the base. Follow the main trail until it comes to the base of the wall in an aspen grove (50 feet west of the prominent right-facing dihedral). Hike left (west) about 100 feet along and up the face until you come to a black crack that starts at a 45 degree angle from near the ground, going up vertically around a small corner 15 feet off the deck. This is about 150 left of the prominent right-facing corner system. It is also easy to face climb directly to the crack system without protection.
Pitch 1. Follow the low-angle hand crack up 70 feet or so to a tree belay on the left, or continue face climbing for a total pitch of about 160 feet to a comfortable belay on a rounded ledge below an overhang.
Pitch 2. Traverse left around the overhang to a vertical crack. Climb up to a clean fist-sized crack (5.7 crux) that continues 20 feet or so. Face climb above this to a very easy (5.3) corner/overhang. Set up the belay there or above on a comfortable rounded ledge.
Pitch 3. Continue up the easy but grassy corner and upward to a tree belay. Walk off or hike to the summit.
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