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Routes in Southeast Face

Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Central Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,030 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard Beller on Mar 18, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This fun route is about 200 yards east of the Greatest Route at Greyrock, on a separate face. It is not in the Colorado Climbing guidebook. I'm sure it has probably been climbed before, but I do not have Luebben's guidebook, and don't know the name. It offers two long clean pitches of fun low angle crack and face climbing, and a third pitch that is grassy and not memorable.

Directions to the base. Follow the main trail until it comes to the base of the wall in an aspen grove (50 feet west of the prominent right-facing dihedral). Hike left (west) about 100 feet along and up the face until you come to a black crack that starts at a 45 degree angle from near the ground, going up vertically around a small corner 15 feet off the deck. This is about 150 left of the prominent right-facing corner system. It is also easy to face climb directly to the crack system without protection.

Pitch 1. Follow the low-angle hand crack up 70 feet or so to a tree belay on the left, or continue face climbing for a total pitch of about 160 feet to a comfortable belay on a rounded ledge below an overhang.

Pitch 2. Traverse left around the overhang to a vertical crack. Climb up to a clean fist-sized crack (5.7 crux) that continues 20 feet or so. Face climb above this to a very easy (5.3) corner/overhang. Set up the belay there or above on a comfortable rounded ledge.

Pitch 3. Continue up the easy but grassy corner and upward to a tree belay. Walk off or hike to the summit.

Protection

Normal rack up to a 3 or 3.5 Camalot.

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