Avg: 2.8 from 12 votes
Routes in Southeast Face
|Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Central Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Simon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 550 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Malcolm Daly, Ed Eggers, 1974|
|Page Views:||1,927 total, 20/month|
|Shared By:||Aaron Martinuzzi on Feb 14, 2010|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAn enjoyable route that combines classic Greyrock slab and thin-crack climbing with a bit of liebacking and steeper face action, Jetstream Deluxe is a reasonable step up from the 5.8s in the area.
P1: Climb a short face into a shallow, right-facing corner with a diminutive pine tree in it. After the corner turns into a slightly steeper seam, traverse left (5.9) on face and thin-crack moves into a fingercrack. Climb this crack and trend right, linking discontinuous seams to one of two belay options - a small ledge with good pro, or, about 25 feet higher, a large ledge with a couple bushes and a large, steep corner on its right side. 5.9, 175+ feet.
P2: On the right side of the large ledge, lieback and undercling a right-arching flake (good pro) until you're able to stem the dihedral (5.8/9-). Gain a stance on a ledge at the base of a blank, dark scoop. The scoop presents an awesome-looking, but totally unprotected and probably hard, friction stemming problem - instead, take a couple steps backward on the ledge until you're able to step right around the arete to well-featured, though runout, face climbing (5.7R). Move up, trending left into a corner, passing a small overlap and gaining a nice belay spot near a pine tree at the base of a huge, left-facing dihedral. A really fun pitch. 5.9- (7R), 130 feet.
P3: Head straight up off the belay, climbing the face and large dihedral through easy terrain (5.4/5.5). Pass a large chockstone at the top of the corner, placing pro at your head to prevent heinous rope drag over the 'stone. Scramble up the slab, heading right through easy 5th/4th class terrain to the top, or aim straight up to pass a small bulge on good handjams and fingerlocks (5.6, fun). Either way, run out the rope to a good belay and scramble to the summit. 5.6, 200+ feet.