Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Southeast Face

Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Central Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,096 total, 33/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 3, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Le Petit is another great easy route on the Southeast Face that ascends an obvious, left-facing corner system to the top of the wall east of the summit.

P1 - Climb the corner and adjacent face through an overlap (5.6) at the first roof band. Belay just above in the crack system, or climb a bit more to a decent ledge. 5.6, 150 feet.

P2 - Continue up the face and corner system. A 45-degree quartzite groove breaks left soon after the ledge. Follow this (great 5.5, no pro) or the corner (dirtier, 5.5 with pro), and either way head up and right as the corner dips off toward tree. Belay if you're so inclined. 5.5, 90 feet.

P3 - Pick your way up face and finger cracks above, 5.4 - 5.6, 150+ feet.

Location

Francais climbs a left-facing dihedral about 200 feet climber's right of Central Chimney. It's easy to locate, the start of the climb is right off the summit trail, about 25 feet behind a trail marker located where the trail runs parallel and near to the main face.

Protection

A standard rack works fine for this line. Like Central Chimney, no RPs or tiny gear needed, just cams and nuts. Pro is generally good on this route, with just a couple shallow, flaring crack sections to give trouble to a new leader. The climbing is secure throughout, though.

Photos

John Korfmacher
Fort Collins, CO
  5.6
John Korfmacher   Fort Collins, CO
  5.6
There are sections on each pitch that are a little thin and might give some trouble to beginning climbers. The traverse on the second pitch (if you do it that way) is also a little nerve-wracking for neophytes. Good route though, fun climbing on moderate rock with some nice exposure. Good pro throughout. 1 hour ago
Marty Wells
Fort Collins, CO
Marty Wells   Fort Collins, CO
I was climbing here in mid-December and had to bail an anchor as my partner and I weren't comfortable climbing higher in the conditions. If anyone has retrieved that gear I'll buy you a 6-pack for it's return. Feb 15, 2016
SteveF
Fort Collins, CO
  5.6
SteveF   Fort Collins, CO
  5.6
This route can be climbed as 2 very long pitches with a 60m rope by setting the first belay station in a corner with a finger crack that is just up and to the right of a small tree and the quartzite band past the first roof. From here, climb up towards the short dihedral to the left of a large tree, then make your way up meandering cracks. You can barely make it to one of the trees on the summit if you try to follow a direct route and use a couple of 4ft slings to reduce rope drag. The first pitch is pretty fun. Apr 13, 2014