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Simon [Suggest Change]
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 22
votes
Routes in Southeast Face
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Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Central Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Simon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,255 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on Aug 25, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description [Suggest Change]
Another fun route up Greyrocks southeast slabs, with two interesting pitches (P1 and P3) amongst mostly easy climbing. This one climbs the hardest of the Simon, Alvin and Theopdore cracks. Approach as for Greatest Route, and continue to the left (south) along the base from that route for about 150 feet. Start in a left arching fist (only initially) to hand crack, just right of Alvin and Theodore.
P1: Climb this crack to ledges (5.7,70 feet), joining the other lines for an easy (P2: 5.3?) pitch to beneath the overhangs. The overhangs are visible in the 2nd Picture shown for the route Theodore. P1 and P2 can be combined for a very long (200+ foot) pitch to just beneath the overhangs.
P3: The crux pitch climbs the right traversing crack below the overhangs over initially lichenous rock. Either continue up the crack directly to its end. Or take a recommended small variation. Half way up at a ledge, move right 5 feet and climb a 'lightning bolt' shaped crack up, back into the traversing crack's crux moves. One can move directly above the overhangs (recommended -- tough for communication though), or take a gully to the right. Either way moves over easy terrain to a large ledge (5.8+,90 feet).
P4: Climbs an easy wide crack up to another ledge with a tree and bushes. (5.2?, 90 feet -- can be combined with P3 for a 200 foot stretcher). From this ledge it's no more than 200 feet of mostly 4th class climbing, perhaps with occasional 5th class moves to the summit area depending on choice of route. Personally I hopped left over a few shrubs and climbed the gully.
P1: Climb this crack to ledges (5.7,70 feet), joining the other lines for an easy (P2: 5.3?) pitch to beneath the overhangs. The overhangs are visible in the 2nd Picture shown for the route Theodore. P1 and P2 can be combined for a very long (200+ foot) pitch to just beneath the overhangs.
P3: The crux pitch climbs the right traversing crack below the overhangs over initially lichenous rock. Either continue up the crack directly to its end. Or take a recommended small variation. Half way up at a ledge, move right 5 feet and climb a 'lightning bolt' shaped crack up, back into the traversing crack's crux moves. One can move directly above the overhangs (recommended -- tough for communication though), or take a gully to the right. Either way moves over easy terrain to a large ledge (5.8+,90 feet).
P4: Climbs an easy wide crack up to another ledge with a tree and bushes. (5.2?, 90 feet -- can be combined with P3 for a 200 foot stretcher). From this ledge it's no more than 200 feet of mostly 4th class climbing, perhaps with occasional 5th class moves to the summit area depending on choice of route. Personally I hopped left over a few shrubs and climbed the gully.
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