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Routes in Southeast Face

Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Central Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,883 total, 20/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route is unlisted in the recent Luebben/Cross/Scott Poudre Canyon Routes guidebook, but appears on the Greyrock topo as route #69 on the Southeast Face.

P1 - Climb the fun, moderate face immediately right of Black Dog's first pitch (pro in a thin crack) up to the apex of the roof system. Pull through the roof (10a) on a finger crack and fun stemming to a stance immediately above. Climb cracks and the face above to a ledge system where a belay can be had. 5.10a, 130 feet.

P2 & 3 - Climb a crack off the ledge with a right-ward kink to it's terminus and traverse left across a water streak to another crack - set a belay where convenient. The rest of the climb follows the Greyrock crack/face mantra up moderate terrain to the top of the wall. 2 pitches of moderate length, 5.7+, possible runouts depending on your particular line.

Location

Immediately right of Black Dog a very thin seam/crack splits the face and leads directly up to a sizable roof with two cracks. This seam, and the roof above, are the first pitch.

Protection

A standard rack to #3 Camalot is just fine for this route; as always, a set of TCUs or the like is useful for the occasional thin crack.

Photos

Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
In the printed edition of the NC3's Poudre Canyon Guide, this route is titled "Keep the River Free", listed at 10a, and is given two well deserved stars. Mar 4, 2011
Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
Great climb! I enjoyed this more than Greatest Route. Following the 10a roof move (seems like a fair rating) I worked my way left up one of the best 5.8ish cracks I've climbed at the Greyrock. As with most moderates up here, options abound. Can be done in two long pitches with some secure simul climbing at the end. Apr 11, 2010
For what it's worth, this climb would make a great first 5.10 lead, as the pro at the crux would be totally solid and easy to place. It's a few challenging, isolated moves amidst otherwise moderate and enjoyable climbing. Mar 29, 2010