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Routes in Southeast Face

Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Central Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,344 total · 22/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Judy's Jaunt is a fun variation to Barfy's Favorite and a vast improvement over the slightly grungy P3 corner/chimney on that route.

P1/2 - Follow the handcrack pitches of Barfy's to a ledge with a huge bush and a large, right-facing corner at it's left side. Set your belay on the right side of this ledge, or climb up to a stance 20ish feet off the ledge. 5.7, 200', goes easily as one or two pitches.

P3 - The Jaunt. Follow clean face climbing and discontinuous cracks straight up (slight runouts here), traversing left at the very top of the big corner. Climb straight up through a steep finger crack to gain more face climbing. Move left again to pass a roof on bomber holds and pro, and run the rope out to a suitable belay on lower-angle ground. 5.7, 200 feet.

P4 - Continue up easy ground to the summit.

Location

Judy's Jaunt is a variation to Barfy's Favorite. Start on that route, which begins 30 feet left of Central Chimney on a boulder.

Protection

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot is just fine for this route. Some variety of small cam will prove useful, probably down to Purple Metolius.

Photos

Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
  5.7
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
  5.7
This is a really enjoyable route on great rock. Fantastic climbing - way better than the dirty corner finish to Rites of Passage. There seems to be several options as to which path of seams and cracks to follow - but all appear equal in difficulty. Fun fun fun! Mar 6, 2011
gdalias
Colorado
  5.7
gdalias   Colorado
  5.7
I climbed this route on Sunday with a friend. The first move off the boulder is impressively difficult compared to the rest of the route. You can stand in a sling to get started, if needed. The route finding in pitch 3 is a challenge, but there appeared to be several possible, fun solutions. I recommend this route, a good outing. May 23, 2016

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