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Routes in Southeast Face

Alvin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Barfy's Favorite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Central Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dancing Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Forward Never Straight (a.k.a. Shade of Grey) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greatest Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inner Mountain Flame T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jetstream Deluxe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Judy's Jaunt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Keep the River Free T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Le Petit Francais T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Misty Mountain Hop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mr. Gone T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Not the Greatest Route (But Still Fun). T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rites of Passage T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Simon T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Theodore T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,153 total, 23/month
Shared By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 29, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Judy's Jaunt is a fun variation to Barfy's Favorite and a vast improvement over the slightly grungy P3 corner/chimney on that route.

P1/2 - Follow the handcrack pitches of Barfy's to a ledge with a huge bush and a large, right-facing corner at it's left side. Set your belay on the right side of this ledge, or climb up to a stance 20ish feet off the ledge. 5.7, 200', goes easily as one or two pitches.

P3 - The Jaunt. Follow clean face climbing and discontinuous cracks straight up (slight runouts here), traversing left at the very top of the big corner. Climb straight up through a steep finger crack to gain more face climbing. Move left again to pass a roof on bomber holds and pro, and run the rope out to a suitable belay on lower-angle ground. 5.7, 200 feet.

P4 - Continue up easy ground to the summit.

Location

Judy's Jaunt is a variation to Barfy's Favorite. Start on that route, which begins 30 feet left of Central Chimney on a boulder.

Protection

A standard rack up to #3 Camalot is just fine for this route. Some variety of small cam will prove useful, probably down to Purple Metolius.

Photos

gdalias
Colorado
  5.7
gdalias   Colorado
  5.7
I climbed this route on Sunday with a friend. The first move off the boulder is impressively difficult compared to the rest of the route. You can stand in a sling to get started, if needed. The route finding in pitch 3 is a challenge, but there appeared to be several possible, fun solutions. I recommend this route, a good outing. May 23, 2016
Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
  5.7
Kevin Landolt   Fort Collins, Wyoming
  5.7
This is a really enjoyable route on great rock. Fantastic climbing - way better than the dirty corner finish to Rites of Passage. There seems to be several options as to which path of seams and cracks to follow - but all appear equal in difficulty. Fun fun fun! Mar 6, 2011