Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Steve Quinlan
Page Views: 163 total · 24/month
Shared By: Nathaniel Chu on Apr 3, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - now open 10/11/19 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A very cool hourglass chimney, which goes from a full chimney down low to a big squeeze and then back out again! Lots of gear and jams nearby, so you can either commit to the steep back wall and jam your way through, keep to stemming or chimney climbing the outside, or do a mix. The cracks in the back go from thin hands or off-fingers to some OW. After a small roof, begin to move right towards a good bolted anchor. 

Location

This route is on the far left side of Nuclear Wall/Sinbad Wall. The best approach trail hits the left side of the cliff nearby. Once at the cliff, look left and see a large right-facing corner/buttress and climb the distinct hourglass chimney that cleaves it down the middle. The beginning starts in a semi-awkward, crappier band of rock. There are twin cracks in the back of the chimney, the left oner larger than the right.

Protection

Fingers to hand-fist stacks, approximately BD 0.5-5.0. A healthy number of 0.75 (1 in) is useful, perhaps 4-5.

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