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5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 38.04694, -109.55072 |
| FA: | Steve Quinlan |
| Page Views: | 1,818 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Nathaniel Chu on Apr 3, 2019 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
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RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
A very cool hourglass chimney, which goes from a full chimney down low to a big squeeze and then back out again! Lots of gear and jams nearby, so you can either commit to the steep back wall and jam your way through, keep to stemming or chimney climbing the outside, or do a mix. The cracks in the back go from thin hands or off-fingers to some OW. After a small roof, begin to move right towards a good bolted anchor.
Location
This route is on the far left side of Nuclear Wall/Sinbad Wall. The best approach trail hits the left side of the cliff nearby. Once at the cliff, look left and see a large right-facing corner/buttress and climb the distinct hourglass chimney that cleaves it down the middle. The beginning starts in a semi-awkward, crappier band of rock. There are twin cracks in the back of the chimney, the left oner larger than the right.



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