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Routes in Sinbad Wall aka Nuclear Wall
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Act or React T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Big "O", The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Breakup Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Dirty Old Man Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fallout Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Fission Quest T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Friction Pig T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fukushima Release T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Full Cavity Search T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Hot Sex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lady Bird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Manifesto T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Meltdown T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mental fitness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Monticello Cop Shop T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Nuclear Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Numbing the Tip...aka unknown 28 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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O The Big Black Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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On the Rocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Peg Leg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Road Block T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rope Around Yer Ankle AKA (Noose Up) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sinbad Was a Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spittness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Stubby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tiffany's Mall Tour T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unnamed Fingers in Left Facing Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Unnamed Left Facing Corner with the Stacked Blocks Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Violator, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Walk the Plank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Yellow Cake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Karl Kelley, Heide Stanke |
| Page Views: | 856 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Oulton on Nov 26, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: 2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
LIFTED 9/13/2022-
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
LIFTED 9/13/2022-
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public will be asked to avoid activities in areas that the BLM has identified as having high potential or are historically known to have raptor nesting activity. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas for the protection of the nesting sites. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration (SITLA), who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Melissa Wardle or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route starts with blocky face climbing for about 30'. The first few moves are in a shallow right-facing corner in the middle of the wall. The remainder of the route follows a finger crack through various features (shallow corners, small ledge).
I thought this to be an excellent intro finger-crack route, as there are only 2 short sections where the climber must make moves without good feet. In both cases, the crack has excellent finger locks (for most people).
This route holds sun for most of the day in late November.
I thought this to be an excellent intro finger-crack route, as there are only 2 short sections where the climber must make moves without good feet. In both cases, the crack has excellent finger locks (for most people).
This route holds sun for most of the day in late November.
Protection
BD Camalots: 0.1 - 0.75 (?). Mostly 0.3 and 0.4.
Very small gear (0.1) is crucial to protect the first 30 feet, though the climbing is moderate.
Two bolt anchor at the top. I may be remembering incorrectly, but I think there is only one rap ring and the other bolt is just a hanger. Plan on rapping instead of lowering.
Very small gear (0.1) is crucial to protect the first 30 feet, though the climbing is moderate.
Two bolt anchor at the top. I may be remembering incorrectly, but I think there is only one rap ring and the other bolt is just a hanger. Plan on rapping instead of lowering.
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