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Full Cavity Search

5.10+, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 40 votes
FA: Steve Quinlan
Utah > Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Sinbad Wall aka Nucle…
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description

A very cool hourglass chimney, which goes from a full chimney down low to a big squeeze and then back out again! Lots of gear and jams nearby, so you can either commit to the steep back wall and jam your way through, keep to stemming or chimney climbing the outside, or do a mix. The cracks in the back go from thin hands or off-fingers to some OW. After a small roof, begin to move right towards a good bolted anchor. 

Location

This route is on the far left side of Nuclear Wall/Sinbad Wall. The best approach trail hits the left side of the cliff nearby. Once at the cliff, look left and see a large right-facing corner/buttress and climb the distinct hourglass chimney that cleaves it down the middle. The beginning starts in a semi-awkward, crappier band of rock. There are twin cracks in the back of the chimney, the left oner larger than the right.

Protection

Fingers to hand-fist stacks, approximately BD 0.5-5.0. A healthy number of 0.75 (1 in) is useful, perhaps 4-5.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Greg absolutely crushing it
[Hide Photo] Greg absolutely crushing it
Leigh Ann stemming the start of the chimney
[Hide Photo] Leigh Ann stemming the start of the chimney
Blayne welcoming the full cavity search
[Hide Photo] Blayne welcoming the full cavity search
Looking over at Full Cavity Search
[Hide Photo] Looking over at Full Cavity Search

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

grog m
Saltlakecity
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Steeper than it looks. The top of the crack is a flaring offwidth that was tough for me. I was wishing I had my #6 to bump above me, recommend bringing one if you have it. Anchor placement made no sense and detracted from the route quality. What's the point of the weird, unprotected, traverse on crumbly rock? Oct 28, 2019
Hank Thompson
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Great route, a bit of questionable rock at the very start makes the entrance to the stem box a bit heady, we built an anchor for the belayer. Lots of .75s. Save a hand size piece for the very top if you want to put yourself on TR for the awkward Traverse to the chains. A classic and unique feature. May 6, 2021