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Routes in Sinbad Wall

Act or React (?) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big "O", The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Old Man Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hot Sex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Bird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noose up T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peg Leg T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinbad Was a Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spittness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiffany's Mall Tour T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Left Facing Corner with the Stacked Blocks Start T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Switching Corners Crack with Crumbly Slot Start T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Violator, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Walk the Plank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 549 total · 10/month
Shared By: DaveT on Nov 3, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Salty old dog of a climb...mostly flared wide hands in an angling crack, but you do get a couple rests. Narrows down in the last 30 or so feet.
70m rope barely gets you back down - ignore guidebook's length!

Location [Suggest Change]

Long, left arching crack at left end of the south side - just before transitioning to the north side (near the huge boulder). Starts through some blocky funk.

Protection [Suggest Change]

a big piece for the funky beginning (new #4 camalot was a bit small)
many #3s for the meat of the route (occasional 3.5 fits too)
2x each .75-2 for the top

Photos

slim

  5.11
slim    
  5.11
hey dave, how is that blocky section and that one flake/block that is almost midway up? i have been wanting to check this one out, thanks for posting it! Nov 4, 2013
Devin Fin
DURANGO
Devin Fin   DURANGO
the block/flake is bomber i have pulled on it , stood on it, it's not going any ware.. Nov 4, 2013
DaveT
Albuquerque
 
DaveT   Albuquerque
 
It definitely looks sketchy but I also pulled/stood on it....gingerly. That being said there's some rotten stuff around it that may or may not be holding it on but you can avoid those bits.
The beginning isn't hard and felt solid enough. Enjoy! Nov 5, 2013
slim

  5.11
slim    
  5.11
cool, thanks guys. i'll get on it next time i am in that neck of the woods. Nov 5, 2013
This route was named for an old dog that lived at Lovers Leap in Cali. He got killed that summer ('98). There are many Sinbad routes at the Leap. Needed one in the Creek for him. Nov 23, 2017
slim

  5.11
slim    
  5.11
thanks for the info - i figured there had to be a story behind this route. this thing is awesome. the block is easy to climb around, and the leaning splitter above it is sustained burly big hands. way heavy on #3 camalots and heavy on #2 camalots. the book says it goes to off fingers but the smallest thing i placed was a #1 camalot. Dec 1, 2017

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