Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Fukushima Release
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Sinbad Wall aka Nuclear Wall
|
|
Act or React T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Big "O", The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Breakup Sex T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
|
|
Brother O T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Dastardly D T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Dirty Old Man Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Fallout Zone T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Fission Quest T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Friction Pig T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Fukushima Release T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Full Cavity Search T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
Hey there, Hot Stuff T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Homeostasis T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Hot Sex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Ju Ju Magic T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Lady Bird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Manifesto T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Meltdown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Mental fitness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Monticello Cop Shop T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Nuclear Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Numbing the Tip...aka unknown 28 T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
O The Big Black Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
On the Rocks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Oppenheimer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Peg Leg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Road Block T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Rope Around Yer Ankle AKA (Noose Up) T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Sinbad Was a Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Spittness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Stubby T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Tiffany's Mall Tour T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Unnamed - Crack Switch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Unnamed Fingers in Left Facing Corner T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Unnamed Left Facing Corner with the Stacked Blocks Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Violator, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Walk the Plank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Yellow Cake T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 38.04694, -109.55072 |
| FA: | CK/CN |
| Page Views: | 635 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Cory N on Sep 18, 2023 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures!
Details
For questions regarding climbing routes and avoidance areas please contact Jeremy Martin, Outdoor Recreation Planner, at the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
Start in a right facing corner with a small boulder problem off the ground into a tips crack. Work your way up to a 5' long roof finger crack in a corner, not as hard as it looks from the ground. Pull around the lip roof with some burly moves and a harder than it looks sequence. Establish yourself in the shallow box under an imposing hanging block roof. We found the block to be softer stone, but stuck in place. Clip the bolt and make some more challenging and really fun moves to pass the block. Once on top of the block you are pretty much home free, reach right and clip the chains.
Rope management adds to the difficulty of the climb. It'd be really hard not to place a piece at the corner the of the roof, its also really hard not to get that piece pushed into the roof. On the aid FA we had two ropes and dropped the first one after the corner. On the FFA CK just dealt with the rope drag and pushed through to the chains but made sure not to weight the rope at the top to avoid pushing the cam in the corner in.
The hanging block should continue clean up with more ascents, we took off everything that was real loose. In addition the face on the right side of the finger crack has some little nubs that look like calcite but occasionally disappear when weighted.
Location
On the Nuclear side of Sindbad/Nuclear, morning shade. Take a right at the top of the approach trail. You can't miss the roof, you can see it from the parking.
Protection
triples of .3 and .4, doubles of .5, one .75, and one quickdraw. Lots of slings. Could be a really good idea to extend all of your pieces under the roof and the back clean the last .3 after you place the first piece in the roof.
You can bring a micro cam; purple metolius or black alien from the very top, but you can pretty much reach the chains from there.
Photos
2 Comments