Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alex Garhart and Dan Garman
Page Views: 1,696 total · 23/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Mar 19, 2013
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Climb fingers in a right-facing corner up to a 15' horizontal roof. Undercling out the roof and pull up onto the nose of the roof to find the chains.
Fantastic pitch.

Location

~200 yards right of Unnamed (far right) 5.10.

Protection

0.75"-2.5" and slings. Heavy on the finger sizes. 2 Bolt anchor.

Photos

Devin Fin
DURANGO
 
Devin Fin   DURANGO
 
wow this thing is so cool.. i have walked this wall an shit never saw this .... fun as hell a must do! Mar 21, 2013
This route and Peg Leg lie far up the canyon that separates Sinbad Wall from Battle of Bulge Wall. So DON'T park and approach as described for the left routes on Sinbad, unless you want to do a mile of loose, rocky, up-and-down side-hilling to the right, along the cliffband. Instead, park 0.2 miles back up the road, toward Newspaper Rock, at a small pullout on the west side of the road. Walk most of the way up the canyon before heading left up to these two routes. Oct 20, 2013
Really fun moves. Unfortunately the rock is crumbly, and the giant bonging flake you layback around is really creepy. May 11, 2015
Alex Garhart
  5.10
Alex Garhart  
  5.10
The only crumbly rock on this pitch is the final 3 feet before the anchor, don't be scared! Also the 20+ ton "bonging flake" seemed more than solid, but I suppose safety is subjective in the desert. May 12, 2015
Nik Sorenson
  5.10
Nik Sorenson  
  5.10
This route is a lot of fun. Don't let the roof intimidate you as the moves are no harder than 5.9 and it protects very well. The crux is the first move. Mar 20, 2017