Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 38.04694, -109.55072
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,293 total · 14/month
Shared By: Orphaned User on Nov 26, 2018
Admins: slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Limited Toilet Facilities! Raptor Closures! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Here you are, looking at the crack. You've been in it before, you know the game, you know you shouldn't, but you itch for it, you do anyway. You slide a #8 in, surprised at how loose it fits, it wasn't always that loose... you dive in anyway. Its starts out well, almost how you remember, pleasant even, but it quickly widens, you go deeper but it's just not the same. Something's wrong, this isn't what it used to feel like, you reluctantly slide out and access the climb. It's dirty, it's loose, it's not what you want. What happened? How long have I been gone? You pull old tricks outta the tank and find yourself standing on a large death block, staring back into the crack. You're proud you made it this far but your mind's racing, you shouldn't be here, your protection fell off, Can I bail? Will I hit the ground? How soft is this rock? Amidst the anxiety you crack a smile a remember a trick you used back in highschool. You clip on some homemade pro and commit back to the climb. Wait, did this pro hold last time, did I get lucky, did it break? You can't remember but you're climbing again, and now you gotta finish. Its awkward, its dirty, you wiggle and squirm, its soft, but now you're on top. You feel empty, you wish there was more, you wish it was better, but this is the end, and you're never going back. It's time to part ways but there's no bolts, there's no easy way down, the climb is keeping you and it's ruining the experience. 

Location Suggest change

Right of Hot Sex

Protection Suggest change

Big Cam -> Small cam in the horizontal -> Deathblocks -> bd .75 in choss
Lotta soft rock, bd 6 aint gonna cut it, traverse to different anchors.

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