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Routes in Sinbad Wall

Act or React (?) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big "O", The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dirty Old Man Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Hot Sex T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Bird T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noose up T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peg Leg T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinbad Was a Dog T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Spittness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tiffany's Mall Tour T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed (far right) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Left Facing Corner with the Stacked Blocks Start T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed Switching Corners Crack with Crumbly Slot Start T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Violator, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Walk the Plank T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 295 total, 8/month
Shared By: Darren Mabe on Nov 11, 2014
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

I spotted a very faint route name scratched into the rock just right of the start. I could make out something like: Actor Reactor or Act or React..

Excellent hand crack with powerful and steep start. Difficulties drop considerably afterwards with cruiser hands, big feet holds, and a couple of pods. Decent warm-up after the initial bulge. Anchors are set a bit far back on the ledge. Easy enough to hang a TR on Violater to the right from this ledge.

Beware of how/where you place cams after the bulge. There is a stuck #2 like 4 ft back in the crack that most likely got pushed back by the rope due to the angle change. Clean every piece on the way down.

Location

at the top of the left approach trail.

Protection

maybe (1-2) #1C4, (3-4) #2C4, and (1-2) #3C4

Photos

Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
  5.10
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
  5.10
Another comment about being diligent with gear placement. The angle change flipped my #2 at the bulge around causing the rope to get pinned between the rock and the cam. Made upward progress impossible. Be careful! Mar 28, 2017