Left Center Low Face
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 37.77386, -119.1288 |
| FA: | TR Ken Roberts |
| Page Views: | 611 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Aug 15, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
Lots of thoughtful moves.
Up vague sub-ridge directly up from the standing dead tree. Finish to Mid-Level Ledge about 5 ft left of two-bolt anchor or 15 ft left of the shady bush.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).
Protection
Two-bolts-connected-by climbing-rope top anchor just above mid-level ledge about 10 feet left from the Shade Bush. With two carabiners attached.
. . . Details about this anchor, see the route "Center Low Face".
No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.
Top-Roping: Could use the 2-bolt top anchor at mid-level ledge as anchor. Or could use one of the anchors along the top of Moynier sector, with belayer on mid-level ledge (but this could result in a long fall due to rope stretch).
For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.



0 Comments