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Routes in 8-Moynier

Blocks to Ridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gully to Ridge Right side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Center High Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Center Low Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: TR, 75 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 60 total · 3/month
Shared By: kenr on May 26, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Variery of techniques required.

Start at bottom of chimney corner and climb to its top. Then up to join the route "Remix", and up that to the 2-bolt anchor near right side of mid-level ledge.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

At the left side of the low right base of lower part of the Moynier wall is a right-facing chimney/corner.

- - > See F on this Photo

Could reach the low right base by hiking up steep right from base of sector Lewis, then scramble up steep left to rough platform next to right-facing chimney/corner.
Or by first hiking to the right end of base of sector Lewis, then climbing the route "Right Edge" to the mid-way anchor at its 5th bolt, then scrambling up right a short ways to the "low right" base of sector Moynier.

Protection

2-bolt top anchor but no intermediate bolts as of May 2017.

Top-Roping: Could use the 2-bolt top anchor at mid-level ledge as anchor.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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