Type: TR, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 409 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on May 26, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Aron Quiter

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Thoughtful slab / face moves.

. . (Perhaps could link from Center Low Face route in lower part).

Up to finish 3-5 feet left of 2-bolt anchor neat top of climb, wandering from side-to-side to find easier climbing.
Variation: finishing direct to 2-bolt top anchor is harder, like 5.8.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Start on mid-level ledge about 25 feet left from two-bolt anchor near right end of ledge. Left of large bush (small tree?).

- - > See on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is two-bolts-with-mussy hooks -- but only one intermediate bolt as of July 2017.
. . (bolts + hangers are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Mussy hooks + quick-links are Plated steel. Anchor installed 2016, directional bolt 2017).
. . (as of 2018, the nut for the right-hand bolt does not have a washer).

1 directional bolt a few feet below right from top anchor could help for top-roping a different line.
. . (botl + hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Top-Roping: Could use the 2-bolt anchor near top of cliff a bit right from bush as top anchor. There is a bolt below left from that which could be used for directional protection.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

0 Comments