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Routes in 8-Moynier
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Blocks to Ridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Gully to Ridge Right side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Center High Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Center Low Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 711 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Dec 7, 2016 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Fun interesting moves (without squirming), but too short in itself.
But makes a fun connection for a multi-pitch from the bottom (Melchsee) to cliff-top of Miroir).
Or makes a nice start to the "Voie Directe" or "Zygofolis" routes in the upper part.
Or could be used to access the Mid-Level Ledge at the top of lower part and the bottom of the upper part of sector Miroir.
Up the wide open corner / gully to the ledge at its top.
Variation: Instead take the face to the left of the chimney (less interesting and not easier).
Top-Rope: Could be use the two-bolt anchor at left side of top of Miroir as top anchor, and have bottom-belayer on the Mid-Level Ledge.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
But makes a fun connection for a multi-pitch from the bottom (Melchsee) to cliff-top of Miroir).
Or makes a nice start to the "Voie Directe" or "Zygofolis" routes in the upper part.
Or could be used to access the Mid-Level Ledge at the top of lower part and the bottom of the upper part of sector Miroir.
Up the wide open corner / gully to the ledge at its top.
Variation: Instead take the face to the left of the chimney (less interesting and not easier).
Top-Rope: Could be use the two-bolt anchor at left side of top of Miroir as top anchor, and have bottom-belayer on the Mid-Level Ledge.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Location
Partway up along the left edge of the Miroir face is an obvious gully / wide open corner of broken rock.
Find it by scrambling up arouund the left side of sector 7 Melchsee, then continuing a bit higher than the ledge at the top of the Melchsee face.
- - > See A on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Find it by scrambling up arouund the left side of sector 7 Melchsee, then continuing a bit higher than the ledge at the top of the Melchsee face.
- - > See A on this Photo
. . . . or on this Photo
Protection
1 intermediate bolt for leading to a two-bolts-connected-by-climbing-rope top anchor about fifteen feet away on ledge.
. . (bolts and hangers are 304 Stainless, installed 2017).
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.
. . (bolts and hangers are 304 Stainless, installed 2017).
Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.
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