8-Moynier Rock Climbing
Routes in 8-Moynier
|Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|NorthEast Ridge Direct TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|NorthEast ridge Left side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|GPS:||37.774, -119.129 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||1,275 total, 95/month|
|Shared By:||kenr on Nov 3, 2016|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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DescriptionThe biggest tallest slab at Silver Lake -- leading to the highest summit in these sectors, which rises above the surrounding ground on all sides, "the Silverhorn" - altitude 7455 feet, GPS latitude longitude (N37.7738 W119.1290) - (Those who prefer German as their Swiss language might call it "der silberne Zahn").
The rock face is roughly 200 feet tall. Faces ENE.
Routes: In addition to single-pitch easy+moderate climbs, sector Miroir offers multi-pitch routes to the top of a (small) real peak, a fine picnic spot (when not windy) with a wonderful view.
Descent: Can make multiple rappels (because a 60-meter rope will not reach bottom). Or if finish the day's climbing to top of the summit ridge, could scramble down ten feet the other (west) side, then walk west about fifty feet to reach well-maintained hiking trail. Right down this gentle to access main June Lake Loop road. Nice if have a bike or second car "spotted" in advance -- otherwise could finish at the Silver Lake Store for a snack while waiting for another member of your party to get the car.
Upper Part: To access the top of the upper part of this cliff, could lead one of the bolt-protected multi-pitch routes Least difficult is "Divine Martine" to "Voie Directe" - (The bottom of "Divine Martine" could be reached by scrambling up around left side of sector Melchsee, or by leading one of the bolt-protected routes in sector Melchsee -- easiest and closest is the route "Salamander").
Or could hike up around the right side. In detail ... go uphill diagonal Right following a rough trail about 200 feet NW out into open brush. Next turn Left and go up SW then S about 200 feet, then 100 feet roughly ESE to the rock tooth, "la Dent d'Argentine".
There are additional "facultative" anchors at gentler more easily reachable points above the obvious two-bolt anchors at the top of the steep rock: two-bolt anchors near the left and right ends of the summit ridge, and a natural rock horn near the center (bring a double-length sling).
. . (could also use trees or bushes below the west side of ridge as "natural" anchors).
So if bring an extra (non-full-length) rope or some long slings, could be "tethered" while climbing down from summit ridge to reach one of the cliff-top anchors to set up Top-Roping. Or if finishing a multi-pitch to enable following climbers to "top out" on the summit ridge, could use one of these "facultative" to protect them on the final moves above the "top of the steep" anchors.
warning: A 60-meter rope (doubled) will _not_ reach the bottom of the Lower part of sector Miroir for lower-off or rappel (though it will reach the Mid-Level Ledge at the bottom of the Upper part).
. . (70-meter rope rope will just barely reach the bottom of the left side of the lower part, but _not_ the right side).
warning: The Upper part is fairly tall for Top-Roping. So if the belayer is at near the bottom of the climbing route, the elongation/stretching of the rope could be large -- so the climber could take a rather long fall (even though on close belay from above), and could hit a ledge or protruding rock, and get seriously hurt. Ideas for dealing with this dynamic-rope-stretch problem: (a) Have the belayer near the top instead of the bottom; (b) Use a special static or "semi-static" rope which will not stretch so much (but such a rope is not safe for first Leading to reach top); (c) Pull the rope extra tight when the climber is just three feet from the bottom, to take some of the stretch out, and keep it extra tight while climber continues up.
Lower Part: To access the top of the lower part of this cliff, can either go around to the left (south) side of sector 7, scramble up a bit, then climb "Left Low Chimney", then traverse north across that ledge to the 2-bolt anchor.
Or ... scramble up around the left (south) side of sector 7 Melchsee onto the wide ledge (with standing dead tree) at top of that sector, then climb one of the sector 8 Miroir routes up from that a short ways to reach the ledge with the 2-bolt anchor above lower part of this sector.
The Mid-Level Ledge between the Lower and Upper parts of Miroir has three two-bolt anchors, on its left, center, and right. So non-climbing members of a party can be attached to one of the anchors for safety. Or if bring an extra rope, could attach it horizontally between anchors, so more climbers could be conveniently "tethered" while waiting or while moving across the ledge.
Name: for John Moynier, author of multiple guidebooks for backcountry ski mountaineering, alpine climbing, and rock climbing in the southern Eastside Sierra.
. . (old name: The June Lake Loop has long been recognized as a little visit to Switzerland. "le Miroir d'Argentine" (the silver mirror) is a big cliff in canton Vaude in western Switzerland, famous for multi-pitch slab routes. Pronounce "Miroir", using the French language of western Switzerland - roughly as ... meer-whar).
warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Getting Therehiking approach: First follow the instructions on the Silver Lake area description page to reach the bottom of sector 7.
Go right (NW) from there a short ways to reach the bottom of sector 8.
- - > See where on this overview Photo
. . . . or this overview Photo
- - > See Access scrambles + trails, and Anchor locations on this Photo
- - > See route lines on this topo Photo
- - > See on this Photo of Low part | or this Photo of High part
Time + effort estimate: From north end of parking lot to the base of this sector is about +155 vertical feet over 0.15 mile distance (+47m over 0.25km), so typical range of hiking times 7-14 minutes.
GPS tracks for hiking/scrambling approaches and descents -- view (or download) on
- - > this Map of the Silver Lake crag
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season