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Routes in 8-Moynier

Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 82 total · 6/month
Shared By: kenr on May 26, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thoughtful face climbing.

. . (perhaps could link to "Center High Face" route in upper part).

Up the face to finish near the "shade bush" around right center of Mid-Level Ledge.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Right side of higher left side base of Moynier sector, 5-10 feet left of top of right-facing chimney/corner.

- - > See D on this Photo

Could reach base of this route by scrambling up around left side of Lewis sector, or by first climbing a route on Lewis sector, or by lowering off mid-level anchor on right side of Moynier sector.

Protection

Two-bolts-connected-by climbing-rope top anchor just above mid-level ledge about 10 feet left from the Shade Bush. With quick-link and two carabiners attached.
. . (bolts + hangers are 304 Stainless steel 0.375 x 2.75-inch. Installed 2017).
. . (quick-link + carabiners are Plated steel. Installed 2018).
. . (climbing-rope connection could be replaced with approx 7-link chain).

As of 2018 about 1 ft below right from the Shade Bush there are two empty drilled holes 3/8-inch diameter in anchor configuration, but no bolts or connecting chain (3-link?) other anchor hardware.

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.

Top-Roping: Could use the 2-bolt top anchor at mid-level ledge as anchor. Or could use one of the anchors along the top of Moynier sector, with belayer on mid-level ledge (but this could result in a long fall due to rope stretch).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.

Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Photos

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