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Routes in 8-Moynier

Blocks to Ridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gully to Ridge Right side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Center High Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Center Low Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: TR Ken Roberts
Page Views: 93 total · 5/month
Shared By: kenr on May 26, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thoughtful face climbing.

. . (perhaps could link to "Center High Face" route in upper part).

Up the face to finish near the "shade bush" around right center of Mid-Level Ledge.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

FA first ascent? The listing of a Top-Rope first ascent does not imply that top-roping is the "appropriate" style for this route. If some party bolts this route and leads it and supplies a careful description of the size and metal-composition of the bolts and hangers - (by posting an Improve This Page or a Comment below) -- they wlll be given first-rank FA on this page. Also they can supply their own name for this climb (which is why currently this route has a "generic" name, awaiting installation of hardware).

Location

Right side of higher left side base of Moynier sector, 5-10 feet left of top of right-facing chimney/corner.

- - > See D on this Photo

Could reach base of this route by scrambling up around left side of Lewis sector, or by first climbing a route on Lewis sector, or by lowering off mid-level anchor on right side of Moynier sector.

Protection

Two-bolts-connected-by-chain top anchor just above mid-level ledge about 10 feet left from the Shade Bush. With two carabiners attached.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 0.375 x 2.75-inch. Installed 2017).
. . (lower hanger + 7-link chain + 3 quick-links + 2 carabiners are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

Right anchor -- There is another bolt anchor in under the right side of the Shade Bush. This anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chainwith two carabiners attached.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel 0.375 x 2.75-inch. Installed 2018).
. . (lower hanger + 8-link chain + 2 quick-links + 2 carabiners are Plated steel. Installed 2018).

No intermediate bolts for leading as of 2018.
Protection for Trad leading is unknown and likely inadequate.

Top-Roping: Could use the 2-bolt top anchor at mid-level ledge as anchor. Or could use one of the anchors along the top of Moynier sector, with belayer on mid-level ledge (but this could result in a long fall due to rope stretch).

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.

Photos

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