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Routes in 8-Miroir

Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast Ridge Direct TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: TR, 175 ft, 2 pitches
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 36 total, 10/month
Shared By: kenr on Aug 1, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting moves.

Stay to right side of ridge crest - sometimes farther right.

Logical point to finish first pitch is at bush above right from big bush blocking the crest of the ridge.

Finish up to around the corner to right of two-bolt anchor.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Wide ledge / platform on top left of sector Lavorgo. This could be reached by Leading the route "Hammerbruch" on sector Lavorgo.

- - > See on this Photo

Protection

Fixed protection only top anchor: Two-bolts-connected-with-chain with rappel ring. No intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (for details about this anchor, See under Protection for the route "NorthWest Ridge Direct").

For parties who want to "top out" onto the summit ridge of the Dent d'Argentine, there is a two-bolt anchor on the summit ridge about 12-15 feet above left from the two-bolts-with-chain anchor which is just below the cliff-top.
. . (for details about this anchor, See under Protection for the route "NorthWest Ridge Direct").Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Miroir sector.

There is a facultative bolt on the summit ridge about 12-15 feet above left from the two-bolt anchor.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

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