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Routes in 8-Moynier

Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast Ridge Direct TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 92 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on May 26, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Slab climbing rich in holds.

. . (formerly called "Right Anchor Up").

. . Could be good for climbers just getting into sport leading, since spacing of most of the bolts is fairly close. More experienced leaders will likely skip some bolts.

. . (Could link from "Mamba" route in lower part).

Start up left from 2-bolt anchor, at first less difficult (and rather mossy as of 2017), then gets steeper. Finish at 2-bolts-with-chain top anchor.
Variation: finishing direct to 2-bolt (no chain) top anchor to left is harder, like 5.8.

If want to continue above anchor to summit ridge - (for the view, or to set up TR on another route, or walk over to the "Family Wall" sector to climb higher) - could bring a long sling to construct "natural" protection on a rock horn above left from 2-bolts-with-chain top anchor.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Start near 2-bolt anchor near right end of mid-level ledge.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is two-bolts-with-chain with two-opposing-gate-carabiners. 11 intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 stainless. But due to a mistake in purchasing, the lower hanger is Plated-Steel (until it gets replaced). Other anchor hardware is mostly Plated-Steel. Anchor and intermediate bolts installed 2017).

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

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