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Routes in 8-Moynier

Blocks to Ridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gully to Ridge Right side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Center High Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Center Low Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 112 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on May 26, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Slab climbing rich in holds.

. . (formerly called "Right Anchor Up").

. . Could be good for climbers just getting into sport leading, since spacing of most of the bolts is fairly close. More experienced leaders will likely skip some bolts.

. . (Could link from "Mamba" route in lower part).

Start up left from 2-bolt anchor, at first less difficult (and rather mossy as of 2017), then gets steeper. Finish at 2-bolts-with-chain top anchor.
Variation: finishing direct to 2-bolt (no chain) top anchor to left is harder, like 5.8.

If want to continue above anchor to summit ridge - (for the view, or to set up TR on another route, or walk over to the "Family Wall" sector to climb higher) - could bring a long sling to construct "natural" protection on a rock horn above left from 2-bolts-with-chain top anchor.

descent: Several options - (see sector Moynier area page for more details about some of these options).
(a) simple and pleasant but long is to top out, then over down the backside west and soon hit the main hiking trail
-- or could bushwhack down around the north side.
(b) rappel or lower back down to base of this route (which is also the top of the route "Mamba"), then make a second rappel from there down to near the base of sector Secor, then hike down from there.
(c) with a 70-meter rope, can rappel to the wide ledge at the top of sector Lewis near the standing dead tree, then make a second rappel from one of the anchors above or below the standing dead tree.  

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Start near 2-bolt anchor near right end of mid-level ledge.

- - > see P on this Photo

Protection

Top anchor is two-bolts-connected-by-chain with two-opposing-gate-carabiners. 9 intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (bolts + upper hanger are 304 stainless. But due to a mistake in purchasing, the lower hanger is Plated-Steel (until it gets replaced). Other anchor hardware is mostly Plated-Steel. Anchor and intermediate bolts installed 2017).

1 directional bolt a few feet below left from top anchor could help for top-roping a different line.
. . (bolt + hanger are 304 Stainless steel 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

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