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Routes in 8-Miroir

Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast Ridge Direct TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Alistair Veitch + Tara + Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 47 total, 12/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 30, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thoughful face climbing.
Interesting way to connect multi-pitch route from the bottom to the top of the Dent d'Argentine cliff.

. . (formerly called "Right Connect from Melchsee").

A way to connect to this route from below would be to lead the bolted sport route "Obelix" of sector Melchsee -- or easier but farther from base of this route could lead the route "Salamander" of sector Melchsee.

If not already at the standing dead tree, walk right roughly horizontally parallel to top edge of Melchsee cliff to reach it. From the tree, walk horizontal right (N) 10 feet, then scramble up rock diagonal right 10 feet past 2-bolt anchor, then down a bit to another ledge which slopes down gentle right. Look up and see bolt. Climb up to this, then diagonal right (to well above right-facing chimney/corner), and finish straight up (staying a bit to the left of the bolt line for the route "Papageno") to reach two-bolt anchor near right end of Mid-Level Ledge.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

The standing dead tree near the right side of the wide ledge at the top of the Melchsee sector.

- - > see on this Photo

Protection

Bolts (not sure how many, perhaps 8?) up to two-bolt anchor with mussy-hooks, and also a rappel ring on cord (as of July 2017).

. . (bolts + hangers are 304 stainless. Other anchor hardware is mostly Plated-Steel. Anchor and intermediate bolts installed 2017).

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Miroir sector.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

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