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Routes in 8-Moynier

Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast Ridge Direct TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Ken + Sharon Roberts
Page Views: 72 total, 16/month
Shared By: kenr on Jul 31, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting moves in interesting spaces. Two roofs (both avoidable) and some interesting flakes to grab.

. . (formerly called "Beyond Left").

. . Nice to first start by climbing up "Left Low Chimney" or "Divine Martine".

. . Bolts for this route are sometimes rather close to those for adjacent route to its right. Also the Variation gets its own bolt. So clip only the bolts you need for your chosen climbing -- when in doubt clip the one farther left.

Easy up right side of dead tree to under roof, and pull over the roof.
. . Variation (also interesting): Scramble up on blocky rocks to right side of roof. Traverse horizontal Left just barely above roof.

Next traverse further left a few feet above top of roof. Then up, aiming for overhang which is a ways below the high inside left-facing corner under right side of peak at left end of summit ridge. Next climb around left side of overhang and diagonal left to a crack/flake. Up this to summit roof, staying well left of the obvious left-facing inside corner (which goes up to two-bolt anchor). Finish over right side of roof (about five feet left of two-bolt anchor).
. . (There is another two-bolt anchor over top of the peak in a little gully on its SW side).

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At left end of Mid-Level Ledge, just above from Left Low Chimney.

- - > See on this Photo

Could reach bottom of "Left Low Chimney" scrambling up around left side of sector Melchsee, then hike up diagonal right up to obvious chimney at left end of bottom of sector Miroir (under the "Dent" peak at left end of summit ridge).

Could reach bottom of "Divine Martine" by scrambling upound left side of Melchsee (or by leading "Salamander" on Melchsee), then hike right on wide grassy ledge like 20-30 feet, and up right to left end of lower wall of sector Miroir (under the "Dent" peak at left end of summit ridge).

Protection

9 bolts up to two-bolts-connected-with-chain top anchor with opposing-gate carabiners just below cliff-top (as of 2017).
. . (bolts and hangers are 304 Stainless, installed 2017).
. . (for details on top anchor, see under Protection for the route "Far Left").

Also for parties who want to "top out" on the left summit of the Dent d'Argentine, there is a two-bolt anchor on the other side (SW) of the left high point of the summit ridge. These two bolts are down in a small corner/gully.
. . (for details on this anchor, see under Protection for the route "Far Left").

Protection for Trad leading is unknown, and likely inadequate.

Top-Roping: For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Miroir sector.

note: The two anchor bolts are vertically offset, so cannot just connect two quickdraws for lower-off or top-rope as many American sport climbers are accustomed. Consider bringing a sling or climbing accessory cord with one or two carabiners or quick-links.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

Photos

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