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Routes in 8-Moynier

Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast Ridge Direct TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 85 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 96 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on May 26, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Variety of climbing, mostly on positive holds.

. . (formerly called "Platform Bulge Right").

. . (Could link to "Papageno" route in upper part).

Get up onto platform, next figure out how to get over the bulge. Then up along right side of face.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At the right side of the low right base of lower part of the Moynier wall is a rock platform just below a bulge.

- - > See on this Photo

Could reach the low right base by hiking up steep right from base of Melchsee sector, then scramble up steep left to rough platform next to right-facing chimney corner.

Protection

Top anchor is two-bolts-with-mussy-hooks. 10 intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (bolts+hangers are 304 Stainless, other anchor hardware mostly Plated-Steel. Anchor installed 2016, intermediate bolts installed 2017).

Top-Roping: Could use the 2-bolt top anchor at mid-level ledge as anchor.

For ideas about how to get access to set up top anchor, see Description page for Moynier sector.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

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