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Routes in 8-Moynier

Blocks to Ridge TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Center High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center Low Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Divine Martine S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Far Left Low Chimney S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Gully to Ridge Right side TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Center High Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Center Low Face TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left High Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Low Face TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Mamba S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Direct S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
NorthEast ridge Left side S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
NorthEast ridge Right side TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Papageno S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Remix S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right High Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Right Low Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unmix S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Voie Directe S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Zygofolis S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 85 ft
FA: TR Sharon + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 125 total · 7/month
Shared By: kenr on May 26, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Variety of climbing, mostly on positive holds.

. . (Could link to "Papageno" route in upper part).

Start by rock platform just below a bulge.
Get up onto platform, next figure out how to get over the bulge. Then up along right side of face.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At the right side of the low right base of lower part of the Moynier wall is a rock platform just below a bulge.

- - > See G on this Photo

Could reach the low right base by hiking up steep right from base of sector Lewis, then scramble up steep left to rough platform next to right-facing chimney corner.
Or by first hiking to the right end of base of sector Lewis, then climbing the route "Right Edge" to the mid-way anchor at its 5th bolt, then scrambling up right a short ways to the "low right" base of sector Moynier.

Protection

10 intermediate bolts for leading.
. . (intermediate bolts+hangers are 304 Stainless, installed 2017).

Top anchor is three bolts in a triangle with the center bolt above the outside bolts and connected to each by a chain. Left bolt has a ramshorn lower-off, and right bolt has a rappel ring.
. . Anchor bolts and upper center hanger are 304 Stainless 3/8-inch x 2.75-inch. Lower Left hanger + attached ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off are 316 Stainless steel. Lower RIght hanger is Plated steel. Two 5-link chains + quick-links + rappel ring are Plated steel. Bolts installed 2016. Chains + quick-links + ramshorn + rappel ring installed 2018.

In case anchor hardware is damaged or missing or otherwise inadequate, recommend to carry a few feet of 8mm climbing accessory cord and at least one quick-link.

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