Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,132 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nicole BI on Apr 25, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1: Scramble up to a BD piton, follow a thin crack, then 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with chains. This pitch is 125' according to the Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley book, which also mis-labels it as Psychadelic Zygote (according to Clint Cummins). Ryan says you can rappel from the top of P1 to the ground with a 70m rope but it's close so tie knots.

Pitch 2: Sloan's book shows 5 bolts to the top of the mini-pinnacle. Clint says it's 5.5 to a poor anchor. Ryan says P2 is fun, you will want some gear to supplement the bolts, and it is equipped to rappel.

Location Suggest change

On the face to the right of the left-facing dihedral at the top of the access trail to Parkline. Start to the left of a single tall tree, aim for a piton just under a tiny roof, and follow the crack and then bolts mainly up and a little to the right. 

Protection Suggest change

The first pitch takes nuts and small cams (I used up to 0.75"), 4 draws, and whatever you want to use for a two-bolt anchor. I didn't do the second pitch but the Rock Climbing Yosemite Valley book shows 5 bolts to the top of the mini-pinnacle; I assume gear for the anchor. Book says gear to 2", so maybe that's for the top.

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