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Routes in 1 - Parkline Slab

Eye of the Beholder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back for More T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bombay Bitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring in the Fembots T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Caribbean Cruise S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chase, The T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Clowns to the left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Color Me Gone (P1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Cliff 170 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Costa Rica (p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crossover T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangling Chads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Farm Alarm TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly By T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying In The Mountains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free For All T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hayley Anna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homeworld T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummock World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jokers to the Right T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Machine Gun Jubblies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moss Madness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
P-Line Express T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rough Arond the Edges Direct T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Around the Edges T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saved By Zero T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sawyer Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Agent Dward S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Tracked T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simon the Dog (aka Dressed to Drill) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soloist, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Stonequest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Too High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tweet This T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unchaste, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Skelton route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whorny Toad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Woody Woodpecker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wretched in Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, Dave Horn
Page Views: 2,007 total, 21/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 21, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Although a bit easier than its well bolted neighbor to its right, with a few runout sections and a bit tricky pro, Bring in the Fembots is often top roped after leading its neighbor. I personally enjoy leading the more thought provoking Bring in the Fembots over the clip up Machine Gun Jubblies. A second pitch, 10b, can be done after leading either first pitch.

Start just left of Machine Gun Jubblies. Climb up the face to a seam that accepts small offset stoppers. Climb up a few moves to a bolt and continue up to another bolt. Move left and up a ways to a small leftfacing corner. You can get a small stopper here and then a cam a foot or two higher( backups are nice). follow the corner up a bit then step right and continue up to a bolt. Cilmb past the bolt to a ledge where you move right to another leftfacing corner. Nice to get a small nut or two in the seam in the corner. Follow the corner up to a nice finger crack. Follow this crack up and over a small roof then continue up to a bolted anchor with chains.

Location

The route starts off a grassy ledge, between crossover and Eagles Eyrie(see Reid guide).

Protection

3 bolts and a light rack, mostly finger size and smaller cams and stoppers(HB offset nuts, 2or3 #6 and 2 #7s are nice to have) to a bolted belay/rap station

(Most folks miss the seam that takes small stoppers(offsets nice)before the first piece about 15' up.)

The route was originally done without the first 2 bolts that were added latter by the first ascent party.

Photos

spyork
Fremont, CA
spyork   Fremont, CA
This lead made me think carefully about getting pro when I could. Feb 8, 2012
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, Dave Horn, 1995? Jan 7, 2012
Bonesaw
CA
  5.8-
Bonesaw   CA
  5.8-
Nice route Jeff. Thought provoking lead. Great climbing. Nov 27, 2010
mucci
sf ca
 
mucci   sf ca
 
TR'd from the fellow 5.8, A thin mixed route with small gear, a few sporty sections, but incredible friction face with discontinous crack systems. Mar 11, 2010