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Routes in 1 - Parkline Slab

Eye of the Beholder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back for More T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bombay Bitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring in the Fembots T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Caribbean Cruise S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chase, The T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Clowns to the left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Color Me Gone (P1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Cliff 170 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Costa Rica (p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crossover T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangling Chads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Farm Alarm TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly By T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying In The Mountains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free For All T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hayley Anna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homeworld T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummock World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jokers to the Right T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Machine Gun Jubblies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moss Madness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
P-Line Express T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rough Arond the Edges Direct T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Around the Edges T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saved By Zero T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sawyer Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Agent Dward S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Tracked T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simon the Dog (aka Dressed to Drill) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soloist, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Stonequest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Too High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tweet This T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unchaste, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Skelton route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whorny Toad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Woody Woodpecker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wretched in Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Mucci and Jeff Scheuerell
Page Views: 1,455 total, 17/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jan 18, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This climb is a lot of fun. It starts with a direct variation to the Center Route. The second pitch startes up the Center Route but stays in the arching seam/corner instead of traversing lower down. It then meets back up with the Center Route higher up. There are 2 bolts and chains at the top of the first pitch and a single 60m rope will get you down. If you do the second pitch you will need to continue to the top of the Center Route or leave webbing around the tree of the second pitch belay.

Location

Between Stonequest and The Chase

Protection

Draws, runners, lite rack w/small micro nuts and cams. There is also an altrnate/more comfortable belay just past the tree belay for the second pitch but it requires cams in the 3.5-4 Camalot size.

Photos

A bolt is now in place instead of the pin...happy climbing. Jan 10, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.9
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.9
Hi Jeff,

I'm sort of surprised that the pin fell out, because if I recall correctly, that was a pretty substantially sized angle. Any chance that you will put a bolt in instead so that the pin does not need to be replaced every few years?

Thanks for the route upkeep.
Cheers man. Jan 6, 2013
Art Cormier
  5.9
Art Cormier  
  5.9
Climed the route on teh 25th durring a break in a light rain. there was enough friction to feel confident. nice moves on small features are the crux. well protected with draws and one nut placement. Apr 26, 2012
FA: Josh Mucci, Jeff Scheuerell, 1/11 Jan 7, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.9
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.9
A 60 meter rope will not get you down from the first anchor unless you and your belayer are willing to belay and lower to the small little pinnacle about 10 feet up the wall to the left of the start of the first pitch. My 70 meter had about 5-7 feet of tail left when I lowered to the actual ground.

I have only done the first pitch, but it climbs really nice with a lot of positive edges; maybe 5.8 at most. Unless you want to run it out 25-30 feet between the last bolt and the angle piton that protects the finish, you will want a 0.3 Camalot or equivalent. Mar 13, 2011
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
We climbed the first pitch, super fun with positive holds throughout and good movement. Good pitch for a novice leader, bolted closely. Feb 28, 2011
Alexey,
I think you are refering to Fly By 11a in Reid guide but I think it's harder and the route to the right of it is the Hawaiian 10a in the guide but also harder. The Hawaiian has two starts. The right is harder. You can belay at a ledge or link the second pitch. The routes are not new but we did replace the 1/4 bolts with donations from ASCA. Jan 22, 2011
Alexey
San Jose
  5.9
Alexey   San Jose
  5.9
Nice job Jeff! The route is really good. As many other routes you guys developed recently at Parkline Slab .
BTW, what is new super slick (5.11?) slab route just left from Eyes of Beholder? and one more next to it (5.10+ ?). They merge to the same anchor and well bolted... Jan 21, 2011