Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Mucci and Jeff Scheuerell
Page Views: 1,557 total · 16/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jan 18, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details
Access Issue: Details

Description

This climb is a lot of fun. It starts with a direct variation to the Center Route. The second pitch startes up the Center Route but stays in the arching seam/corner instead of traversing lower down. It then meets back up with the Center Route higher up. There are 2 bolts and chains at the top of the first pitch and a single 70m rope will get you down. If you do the second pitch you will need to continue to the top of the Center Route or leave webbing around the tree of the second pitch belay.

Location

Between Stonequest and The Chase

Protection

Draws, runners, lite rack w/small micro nuts and cams. There is also an altrnate/more comfortable belay just past the tree belay for the second pitch but it requires cams in the 3.5-4 Camalot size.

Photos

Alexey Zelditch
San Jose
  5.9
Alexey Zelditch   San Jose
  5.9
Nice job Jeff! The route is really good. As many other routes you guys developed recently at Parkline Slab .
BTW, what is new super slick (5.11?) slab route just left from Eyes of Beholder? and one more next to it (5.10+ ?). They merge to the same anchor and well bolted... Jan 21, 2011
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.9
Alexey,
I think you are refering to Fly By 11a in Reid guide but I think it's harder and the route to the right of it is the Hawaiian 10a in the guide but also harder. The Hawaiian has two starts. The right is harder. You can belay at a ledge or link the second pitch. The routes are not new but we did replace the 1/4 bolts with donations from ASCA. Jan 22, 2011
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
We climbed the first pitch, super fun with positive holds throughout and good movement. Good pitch for a novice leader, bolted closely. Feb 28, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.9
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.9
A 60 meter rope will not get you down from the first anchor unless you and your belayer are willing to belay and lower to the small little pinnacle about 10 feet up the wall to the left of the start of the first pitch. My 70 meter had about 5-7 feet of tail left when I lowered to the actual ground.

I have only done the first pitch, but it climbs really nice with a lot of positive edges; maybe 5.8 at most. Unless you want to run it out 25-30 feet between the last bolt and the angle piton that protects the finish, you will want a 0.3 Camalot or equivalent. Mar 13, 2011
FA: Josh Mucci, Jeff Scheuerell, 1/11 Jan 7, 2012
Art Cormier
  5.9
Art Cormier  
  5.9
Climed the route on teh 25th durring a break in a light rain. there was enough friction to feel confident. nice moves on small features are the crux. well protected with draws and one nut placement. Apr 26, 2012
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.9
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.9
Hi Jeff,

I'm sort of surprised that the pin fell out, because if I recall correctly, that was a pretty substantially sized angle. Any chance that you will put a bolt in instead so that the pin does not need to be replaced every few years?

Thanks for the route upkeep.
Cheers man. Jan 6, 2013
Jeff Scheuerell  
  5.9
A bolt is now in place instead of the pin...happy climbing. Jan 10, 2013