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Routes in 1 - Parkline Slab

Eye of the Beholder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back for More T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bombay Bitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring in the Fembots T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Caribbean Cruise S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chase, The T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Clowns to the left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Color Me Gone (P1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Cliff 170 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Costa Rica (p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crossover T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangling Chads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Farm Alarm TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly By T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying In The Mountains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free For All T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hayley Anna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homeworld T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummock World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jokers to the Right T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Machine Gun Jubblies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moss Madness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
P-Line Express T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rough Arond the Edges Direct T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Around the Edges T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saved By Zero T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sawyer Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Agent Dward S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Tracked T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simon the Dog (aka Dressed to Drill) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soloist, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Stonequest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Too High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tweet This T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unchaste, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Skelton route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whorny Toad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Woody Woodpecker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wretched in Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Don Reid and Ron Skelton - Jan. 1985
Page Views: 851 total · 9/month
Shared By: Osprey Overhang on Nov 27, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This climb can be seen from Hyw 140. Look for a white section of granite with two cracks in it forming Woody's beak. The climbing is excellent and the thin hands section is awesome.

Location

Follow approach to Stonequest. Traverse west along the base to the far end of the cliff. Look up high for a diagonal crack splitting beautiful granite. How you get to the base is up to you. Either pass the crack and work your way up and east, or climb a two pitch bolted line to the ledge below Woody Woodpecker.

Protection

Standard rack plus extra thin hands to cups. Bring long slings for the zig-zag nature of the climb as well as the top section. Rap to the right off of a newly bolted anchor with one 70m rope.

Photos

Kurt Jensen
Aptos,CA
 
Kurt Jensen   Aptos,CA
 
The two pitch bolted route below Woody can be easily led as 1 pitch. I skipped the intermediate anchor and this makes it a nice longer slab pitch. Feb 9, 2014
Bonesaw
CA
  5.9+ PG13
Bonesaw   CA
  5.9+ PG13
Definitely worth doing! The crack is super clean... just wish it were longer. Getting to the crack from the ledge is dirty and a bit runout. Getting to the belay anchors from the crack is also a bit dirty and runout, although the climbing is easier there. Oct 8, 2010
Ryan Huetter
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ryan Huetter   Mammoth Lakes, CA
Climbed in one long pitch, it´s first half is really fun crack climbing with a green/red camalot traverse (think Airy Interlude), but the second half is pretty mungy grainy run-out climbing til you hit the anchor ledge. The bolta are nice new beefy 3/8ths. Dec 13, 2009
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
There is a two pitch bolted route (.10a) directly below The Woodpecker. Climbing this route is probably the best way to access Woody's belay ledge. You can also use the rappel anchors on this route to get back to the ground. Do this in two raps with one 70m rope. Dec 11, 2009