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Routes in 1 - Parkline Slab

Eye of the Beholder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back for More T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bombay Bitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring in the Fembots T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Caribbean Cruise S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chase, The T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Clowns to the left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Color Me Gone (P1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Cliff 170 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Costa Rica (p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crossover T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangling Chads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Farm Alarm TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly By T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying In The Mountains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free For All T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hayley Anna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homeworld T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummock World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jokers to the Right T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Machine Gun Jubblies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moss Madness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
P-Line Express T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rough Arond the Edges Direct T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Around the Edges T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saved By Zero T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sawyer Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Agent Dward S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Tracked T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simon the Dog (aka Dressed to Drill) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soloist, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Stonequest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Too High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tweet This T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unchaste, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Skelton route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whorny Toad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Woody Woodpecker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wretched in Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 140 ft
FA: Dave Caunt, Eric Mayo, late 1980s
Page Views: 1,097 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details
Details

Description

Nice enjoyable face climbing with some friction but mostly nice, clean, and often big, edges. Although bolted this climb is no sport route. A fall getting to the 3rd bolt will put you close or on the ground. Best let your partner lead this one! This climb gets an R rating although A FALL GETTING TO THE 3RD BOLT COULD KILL YOU!

Location

This route is on Parkline Pinnacle 30' right of Stone Quest

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (ALL BOLTS ARE NOW 3/4" INCLUDING THE ANCHOR) (THANK ASCA)

Photos

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Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
J. Albers, woops! I must have been editing my comment at the same moment that you were posting yours. Timestamps. I agree with much of what you've written, but not all of it.

To clarify for other readers: Before editing my comment, I had written that The Chase was squeezed on both the right and the left by newish looking lines. I thought more about that and changed what I'd written - before seeing J. Albers' comment - because it really isn't squeezed on the right. The climb that goes up the blunt arete on the right is well clear of The Chase. I still feel that the line of bolts to the left changes the mental aspect of leading The Chase, in particular the heady climbing between the ground and the fourth bolt.

I also added to my original comment that we climbed the newish line left of The Chase, and really enjoyed it. The blunt arete to the right was also a blast, though we only toproped that one from The Chase's anchors. Not my intention to criticize the FA of the newer lines, or to sound like an asshole. Feb 28, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
I think the "squeeze job" comment is unwarranted. The route to the right of the Chase (The Unchaste) is quite a ways to the right and the route to the left is simply a direct start (called Free For All) to the Center Route which went up in 1970. The Unchaste in particular is quite a ways to the right and in no way squeezes The Chase. In fact, if the closeness of The Unchaste to The Chase qualifies it as squeeze job, then by that definition, Stonequest is surely "squeezing" the Center Route. IMHO, the Unchaste is a superior route to the Chase; I think the FA's did a fine job of scoping the line and bolting the route in way that keeps with the established ethics at Parkline.

EDIT: Sirius, my apologies if my post came across as rude. I just think one needs to be careful when throwing around terms like "squeeze job" because it can surely be interpreted as slanderous towards the FA. And in this case, given that the FA's have done a lot of development and hardware up keep at P-Line, I think they deserve the benefit of the doubt. Cheers man. Feb 28, 2011
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
FA: Dave Caunt and Eric Mayo, late 1980's (Rock Climbing: Yosemite Free Climbing, Reid 1994)

Great climb, deserves the R rating.

The nature of the climb seems changed by the semi-squeezejob bolted line that has gone in on the left of it. If the leader gets too wigged out on The Chase, in certain point of the climb it's now simple to make a few moves left and clip, clip, clip. Not the case when The Chase was first put up, I imagine, when casting off on lead meant committing.

That said, we climbed the climb to the left and thought it was super fun. Feb 28, 2011

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