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Routes in 1 - Parkline Slab

Eye of the Beholder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back for More T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bombay Bitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring in the Fembots T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Caribbean Cruise S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chase, The T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Clowns to the left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Color Me Gone (P1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Cliff 170 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Costa Rica (p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crossover T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangling Chads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Farm Alarm TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly By T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying In The Mountains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free For All T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hayley Anna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homeworld T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummock World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jokers to the Right T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Machine Gun Jubblies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moss Madness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
P-Line Express T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rough Arond the Edges Direct T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Around the Edges T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saved By Zero T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sawyer Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Agent Dward S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Tracked T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simon the Dog (aka Dressed to Drill) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soloist, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Stonequest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Too High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tweet This T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unchaste, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Skelton route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whorny Toad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Woody Woodpecker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wretched in Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Dave Horn
Page Views: 2,669 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Mar 5, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Hayley Anna is worth the walk but adding 2 more pitches makes it even more worthwhile. Both pitches above are fun. The first is easy and fun. Although it looks like a dirty crack your basicly face climbing around the crack but getting great protection in the crack. This pitch has some very cool features. Although it stays wet for a few days after a rain you can almost always avoid the water. It has a fun traverse and a nice exposed belay. The second pitch is great and it is harder than it appears at first. Originally put up with 2 bolts I have added 5 more to take away the sting. Bring a bit of pro to a .5C4 and a good eye to find it.

Location

p1 starts directly above Hayley Anna. Goes straight up, then follows a diagonaling crack to the right. Soon after the crack peters out, face climb to the exposed 2 bolt belay/rap station.

2nd pitch goes up from here passing a couple of bolts and taking gear when you can find it. Ends at another 2 bolt belay/rap station. 3 raps straight down. 2nd rap goes over the large roof to a third bolted rap station.

Protection

Standard rack for p1. (Also may want a #4 camalot)

On the last pitch I place a yellow C#3(only thing that will work in that spot. Right above it you could place a micro cam. Above that I place an offset nut. Bust out a few moves and you get a bomber .5C4. After the last bolt keep your eye out for a green Alien size peice under the small roof. You can also get one last peice, a small offset nut or a 0C3, before the anchor.(SEE TOPO/PHOTO)
Not sure where people are getting runout? Look at the beta photo. If in doubt look around, don't commit, the pro is there. You don't always go up. Sep 20, 2017
Yosemitesam  
 
Pretty fun route. I felt the 2nd pitch was a little heady. I found a spot for a purple master cam but even that was way above my last bolt and way far from the next. Decently moderate slabbing but definitely not a clean fall if you blow it.

I agree with Mr. Hartouni about not getting sucked into the terrain directly below the anchor on this pitch. I started up and then ended up having to downclimb a heart poundingly high ways from the last pro. It is sweet relief to sink that bomber blue master cam under the roof.

We rapped back to the first pitch anchor instead of the bolts above the roof b/c the stance looked a lot more comfortable. Jan 24, 2013
Ya Kurt, nice to meet you and great to see people climbing and enjoying Parkline. Soft in the middle would be scary without pro. But with the recommended rack it is very safe. Kinda getting warm down there now but Parkline is great on days when they are calling for a chance of rain. Hope we are not done there for the summer. Apr 21, 2012
Kurt Jensen
Aptos,CA
  5.9 PG13
Kurt Jensen   Aptos,CA
  5.9 PG13
Nice meeting you the other day Jeff. I've enjoyed a few of your routes there now!
I think Jeff's pro hints are key. I couldn't see any bolts when I left the 6th bolt, and would have been well into the R zone if I didn't have a purple .5 C4 or equiv. when I found the brief bomber spot for it. Above that, I didn't have his recommended gear for the end of the pitch, and hadn't seen his tips (even though I'd just met him)...which made for some R excitement with no pro above last bolt. Follow wise Jedi's tips, and you'll probably have a more casual lead on really cool rock. Enjoy! Apr 18, 2012
I added another bolt as suggested by Ed and others. The pitch is now very safe but keep an eye out for protection. I added a few pro hints in the protection section above. Mar 31, 2012
Ed Hartouni
Livermore, CA
Ed Hartouni   Livermore, CA
I did this route Saturday, Feb 4 2012

I thought that the combination of Hayley Anna followed by these two pitches of Soft in the Middle would make a great 3 pitch 5.8 with varied climbing from bottom to top!

At the top of p2 you have to resist the urge to be drawn over to the rock right under the bolts, which I did and pulled it off with the help of a upper belay from the stuck red rope (see picture), still probably only 5.8, but I didn't want to risk blowing the move and ending up on the little ledge below,

Instead, work left a bit to a roof under which you can get a couple of cams, and move up there then walk a ramp right to the anchors.

It might make for a great 5.8 leader route to put a bolt protecting the moves under the anchors, but it's a fun route, very enjoyable. Feb 12, 2012
Word is the last pitch rap needs a couple more links otherwise your rope may twist. If anyone goes up to do it maybe you can add a link. Feb 12, 2012
I am glad this route is seeing a bit of traffic. As stated above we added a few bolts to the last pitch and intended on one more but got rained out on 2 trips up there with the drill. The climbing in the run out section is easy but a short person might have a harder time reaching the protection under the roof before traversing right to the anchor. Also I have heard people are missing(not finding) several peices of gear available between the last bolt and the anchor. If you find the gear this pitch is a very soft R if not that last move will be very heady.

I hope to get the last bolt in soon due to the fact that the route is seeing a bit of traffic and from below the route appears very well protected. Feb 12, 2012
spyork
Fremont, CA
spyork   Fremont, CA
Fun route. The first pitch was wet when I led it. The water made it a bit more spicey, but still within the rating. The crack on this pitch tends to get stuff growing in it.

The second pitch is clean slab climbing. The rating seemed right on. Good slab practice when it is cold everywhere else in the winter. Feb 8, 2012
Nice Marc, let me know when your around and maybe I can join you. Come out and join us at Shuteye this summer.

Jeff May 16, 2011
squiddo Siddens
Mountain View, CA
squiddo Siddens   Mountain View, CA
Jeff great meeting you and Monica yesterday. I'm anxious to go back and climb this and others.

Marc May 15, 2011
This route is no longer R rated. Josh and I added 2 more bolts to my route. We were going to add a third but the rain came in again. So there is still a bit of a run out but the climbing is easy there. Just make sure to place good gear under the mini roof before the last moves to the anchor. I placed 2 cams a blue tcu and the red C3. The yellow C3 would be nice there but it was also very nice to have lower down.

A double set of cams should be enough for the first 2 pitches. You may also want a 3.5 and 4 Camalot. The 3rd pitch is mostly bolt protected but after the, now, 4th bolt you step right and can get an ok peice(I had a yellow alien and a Yellow C3 and the C3 seemed to fit the placement best). From the same stance you can get a micro cam (000C3)and maybe even an offset micro nut. after a couple of moves I got a bomber .5 C4. From there it's a bit run to the mini roof where you can get a peice or two. I placed a blue tcu and a red C3 but a second yellow C3 instead of a blue tcu might be better. You can also place an offset stopper like maybe a #6HB before the anchor.

Also, the pitch above Haley Anna is often wet but after a bit of cleaning you can now climb around the wet sections without much trouble. The holds on this pitch are amazing. Bring several long slings for this pitch. Apr 11, 2011
Bonesaw
CA
  5.9 R
Bonesaw   CA
  5.9 R
The final pitch is soooo good! Super fun face moves. The "Soft in the Middle" pitch was not soft b/c it was very wet. Great route (even better when dry)! Mar 10, 2011