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Routes in 1 - Parkline Slab

Eye of the Beholder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back for More T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bombay Bitch T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring in the Fembots T,S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Caribbean Cruise S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Center Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chase, The T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Clowns to the left T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Color Me Gone (P1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Cliff 170 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Costa Rica (p1) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Crossover T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dangling Chads T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Farm Alarm TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fly By T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying In The Mountains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free For All T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hawaiian , The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hayley Anna T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Homeworld T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummock World T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jokers to the Right T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Machine Gun Jubblies S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moss Madness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
P-Line Express T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rough Arond the Edges Direct T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rough Around the Edges T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Saved By Zero T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sawyer Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Secret Agent Dward S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Side Tracked T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Simon the Dog (aka Dressed to Drill) S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Soft in the Middle T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soloist, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Stonequest T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Too High T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tweet This T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unchaste, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed Skelton route T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Whorny Toad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Woody Woodpecker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wretched in Stone T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Dave Horn and Jeff Scheuerell
Page Views: 2,692 total, 28/month
Shared By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Details
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This route starts with well protected face climbing that will keep you on your toes. The crux comes mid way on the first pitch with a second crux above a diorite band. The second pitch is easier but still challenging with mostly face climbing and a bit of crack near the pitches end. The last pitch is very easy but fun crack climbing.

Location

This route starts on the right arete of Parkline Pinnacle, right of The Chase.

Protection

P1- 9or10 bolts plus a .75 Camalot to a bolted belay
P2- 4 bolts, a fixed pin, and a small rack to a .75 Camalot(offset stoppers are nice to have)
P3- small rack to a .75 Camalot

Photos

J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10b
I have one quick comment now that Jeff added a second anchor on the first pitch. Stopping at the first anchor is great if you only intend on climbing the first pitch and you want to lower/rap with a single 70 m rope. However, if you are going to continue upwards to the upper pitches, then climb to the second anchor on pitch one (it is only a few more bolts up). The reason I say this is that there is some solid 5.10 friction climbing immediately above the first anchor where if you fell (a real possibility), you would slam into your belayer. By climbing up to the second set of anchors, you alleviate this problem altogether and as an added bonus, the upper belay stance is much nicer.

I was glad that I brought HB offsets for the second pitch; this made some of the nut placements super bomber.

Great route by the way; thanks to Jeff and Josh for putting this one up. Nov 5, 2012
Art Cormier
  5.10b
Art Cormier  
  5.10b
Top roped the first pitch durring light rain. not enough rain to effect friction but i was happy to be on toprope particularly at the crux. Feet pasted on slab and small edges for fingers i was lurred to the endge of the arette for better hands but returned back left for better feet. Apr 26, 2012
I am making a few changes to this route. I moved the first pitch anchor down, now It can be done eaisily with one 70m rope. A 60 can work with a bit of easy downclimbing(tie a knot in the ends of your rope though).If you climb past the first anchor you will need 2 ropes. I may changing this. Feb 7, 2012
FA: Dave Horn, Jeff Scheuerell, 1995? Jan 7, 2012
Alexey
San Jose
  5.10b
Alexey   San Jose
  5.10b
climbed p1 and 2. Probably best route I climbed on Parkline so far.
80m rope perfectly fit for both pitches to rap Apr 25, 2011
Bonesaw
CA
  5.10b
Bonesaw   CA
  5.10b
Climbed first 2 pitches... perfect slab route. Nice work Jeff. Oct 8, 2010
The last pitch is easy, 5.6 up obvious cracks. Most folks skip the last, so little traffic means the plants grow back in the crack. When the cracks end a little face climbing leads to a big ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Not sure how it was missed. Using the anchors on this route is the most comfortable way of getting off Stone Quest as well. Apr 21, 2010
squiddo Marc
Mountain View, CA
squiddo Marc   Mountain View, CA
Great route....I'd stay off the 3rd pitch though as the quality degrades significantly and I found no anchor. Apr 11, 2010
mucci
sf ca
  5.10b
mucci   sf ca
  5.10b
Just did the 1st Pitch, perfect edging and friction. Bolted where you need it, some gear toward the top while moving through the featured bulge.

Simply awesome. Mar 11, 2010